Trade the crowds of Palermo for something quieter, slower, and more soulful in Sicily’s rugged interior. Susafa, a centuries-old farm turned sustainable hotel, offers a different kind of Sicilian escape. This isn’t the place you come to check off sights. Instead, your days unfold gently, lingering by the pool, strolling through wheat fields at golden hour, and dining on the freshest farm-to-table fare. It’s il dolce far niente at its finest, a Considerate Collection stay that invites you to align your pace with the undulating landscape and savour the sweetness of doing absolutely nothing.
SET THE SCENE
As we veer off the main road onto a narrow, somewhat battered path, cracked pavement and a few potholes for good measure, I can’t help but wonder if we’d taken a wrong turn. We had left behind the sensory overload of Palermo earlier that day and are now deep in the heart of Sicily, heading straight into the countryside. When Susafa finally comes into view, surrounded by nothing but golden wheat fields in every direction, I exhale. Partly from the bumpy drive, partly from sheer relief after navigating Palermo’s chaos.
Susafa is a secluded eco-retreat housed in a former farmhouse; the kind of spot that makes you forget the rest of the world exists. The nearest town is a solid 20-minute drive away, and Cefalù is over an hour away.
We arrive just in time for lunch, welcomed with a spread of simple, garden-plucked dishes in the hotel’s rustic dining area. Bellies full, we wander over to the pool, where a handful of other guests are stretched out in the sun. The afternoon unfolds slowly — reading, dozing, and dipping in and out of the water. Out here, in the middle of nowhere, there’s luxury to be found in the stillness.
TELL US ABOUT THE ROOMS…
Each of Susafa’s 17 rooms is brimming with modern touches, balanced by just the right amount of bucolic charm. I’m staying in one of the Junior Suites, which has a spacious loft-style setup with a relaxed living area below and bed above, and direct access to the garden and pool.
These spaces once served as the working core of the estate where cheese and dairy products were made, and wine was pressed. Now, they’ve been carefully renovated into restful, minimalist suites that still feel authentic to this rural patch and its generations-old story. The design is effortless, overall: organic materials, natural textures, and a quiet elegance that reflects the surrounding landscape.
STYLE POINTS?
Susafa combines the look and feel of a luxury farmhouse with the ease and warmth of home. Every space, from the pared-back yet polished rooms to the dining area and sun-drenched pool, strikes a thoughtful balance between simplicity and sophistication.
Rooms are stocked with Susafa’s own line of natural soaps and toiletries; a small detail, but one that speaks to the care and intention behind every part of the experience. And with just a handful of rooms, there’s a sense of intimacy throughout the property. I find myself chatting with the same guests over breakfast, by the pool, and again at dinner. The remote setting creates an almost retreat-like atmosphere, where conversations feel unrushed, and friendships take root naturally.
THE FOOD & DRINK
Meals are all about what’s grown just outside the kitchen door. You’ll taste sun-ripened tomatoes, fresh herbs, and golden olive oil straight from Susafa’s own gardens, groves, and orchards, all woven into simple Sicilian recipes. Dishes are paired with local wines, transforming every bite and sip into a warm, ongoing invitation to share in the farm’s way of life.
ANYTHING ELSE TO NOTE?
For those looking to do more than just lounge by the pool, Susafa offers a curated mix of experiences. For budding chefs, there are cooking classes, alfresco feasts in the fields, sunset aperitivi, and wine tastings that showcase the estate’s slow-food philosophy.
If you’d like to swap the countryside for the coast, the team can arrange a day at sea with a private sailing tour. As for me, I opt for the garden massage, fully embracing sweet, sweet idleness.
The remote setting creates an almost retreat-like atmosphere, where conversations feel unrushed, and friendships take root naturally.
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