Icelandic horsepower: an off-road guide to the land of fire & ice

Steam rises from milky blue lagoons and bubbling lava fields, waterfalls tumble into lunar-like caves and freeze into giant icicles, and dark volcanic sand sweeps across the weather-beaten shorelines. Iceland is otherworldly, with adventures to be had at every turn, and in every season.

WHERE TO STAY

Originally intended as a rural resort for horse lovers, Hotel Rangá was founded on the banks of the Rangá River, from which it takes its name, by Sigurbjörn Bárðason — one of Iceland’s best known horsemen. The wood-crafted lodge promises all the cosiness of a family-run cabin, with far-reaching volcano views and rooms decorated with local artworks and textiles (including a hand-knitted bedspread in the shape of a traditional jumper in the Icelandic Suite). The Considerate Collection hotel has every base covered for sustainable stays near the Golden Circle, right down to the 100% recyclable lunchboxes (filled with locally sourced produce) offered to guests to take on excursions.

OFF-ROAD BY HORSE

Venturing even deeper into the Icelandic countryside, Hotel Rangá organises visits to Icelandic Horseworld, a 350-hectare farm and stables in Skeiðvellir. Taking the reins from her parents Siggi and Lisbeth, Katrín Ólína Sigurðardóttir oversees the breeding, training, and riding of the farm’s 100-strong herd of Icelandic horses. Katrín also runs a variety of individual and group tours for every age and ability, including ‘Mountains & Meadows’, ‘Under the Volcano’, and ‘Into Nature’.

More experienced equestrians can tölt at a faster pace across black sand beaches, flower-filled meadows, and snow-dusted valleys, spotting the slopes of Hekla and Eyjafjallajökull from the saddle. The summer tours mostly follow sheep tracks, and at times the grass grows so long that the rider in front of you might momentarily disappear from sight.

OFF-ROAD BY SUPER JEEP

Standing guard over the edge of the Icelandic Highlands, Þórsmörk Nature Reserve runs along a mountain ridge between the glaciers of Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull. Traversing the Valley of Thor requires suitably super-powered wheels and sturdy footwear to hike rocky canyons and ice caves.

Southcoast Adventure runs guided tours (aka bumpy, action-packed drives) in specially modified 4×4 super jeeps, which are geared up for crossing gushing glacial rivers and gripping steep, frozen-solid terrain. The stop at Gígjökull is particularly scenic, an outlet glacier crested by the ice-capped crater of Eyjafjallajökull volcano. The wilderness of Fjallabak can only be accessed by super jeep, drawing the most intrepid travellers to its vibrant rhyolite mountains, lava fields, and hot springs.

OFF-ROAD BY BUGGY

Two-seater, open-air buggies can be booked through Hotel Rangá for day trips to Þórsmörk and Landmannalaugar, a remote tundra bubbling with geothermal activity that’s known as the Pearl of the Highlands. You’re exposed to the elements and completely immersed in the dramatic scenery throughout the journey, and have the chance to bathe in the world’s only warm ice pools.

HOW TO RELAX

Back at Hotel Rangá, a long soak in the outdoor geothermal hot tubs is sure to soothe any saddle-sore muscles. To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the hotel’s onsite observatory (kitted out with a roll-off roof and two high-tech telescopes), you can sip a special Starry Night cocktail crafted with edible glitter while stargazing or waiting for the Northern Lights to dance across the skies. On clear nights, you can join local astronomers at the observatory to learn more about the constellations, the aurora, planetary sightings, and more.

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