Full of characterful, colourful neighbourhoods where culture and cuisine thrive, Mexico City is a magnet for creatives to reside and visit. Condesa remains the go-to for Art Deco architecture and buzzy brunch spots. The bohemian enclave of Coyoacán has long been a refuge for artists. Burgeoning Juárez brings in a youthful crowd with its new-school cool and hidden bars. Roma Norte moves to its own rhythm — with a pace and creative current that’s hard to match.
Building and rebuilding…
Roma Norte rose to prominence as a wealthy residential district in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Back then, its Art Nouveau, Neoclassical, and later Art Deco mansions were home to elites drawn to the neighbourhood’s European-influenced architecture and leafy, tree-lined streets.
As wealthier residents began moving out in the 1940s, the once-grand residences were left abandoned or subdivided. The 1985 earthquake damaged much of the district, yet spared some of its most important structures. The decades that followed marked a period of gradual revival, spurred by an influx of young creatives in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.
Today, Roma Norte, the northern half of Colonia Roma, just west of the historic centre, offers a dynamic mix of art, food, nightlife, and shopping. It’s become a thriving hipster hangout that attracts artists, tastemakers, and travellers who hope to be all of the above. Many of its most emblematic façades have been revitalised, joining new-builds to accommodate cafés, cutting-edge art galleries, and cocktail bars. And its effortlessly cool, walkable vibe makes it one of the city’s most coveted corners.
What to do & where to shop
To understand Roma Norte is to appreciate its emblematic architectural treasures, the backbone of the neighbourhood itself. Venture to Casa de las Brujas (Witches’ House), the famous red-brick building with spooky secrets presiding over Plaza Río de Janeiro. Walking down Calle Orizaba on the way to the Porfirian-era Cultural Center Casa Lamm, before wandering over to El Parián, a historic arcade from the early 1900s that now houses cafés, eateries, and local shops.
Roma Norte has a robust art scene, punctuated by an abundance of galleries. A curated collection of vivid, colourful works by emerging artists from Mexico and beyond lines the walls of Mooni. Billed as a project space, Galería Mascota exhibits thought-provoking conceptual and experimental art, from large-scale paintings and sculptures to immersive text-based works. Discover more art and oddities at MODO Museo del Objeto, a quirky museum tucked inside a revamped Art Nouveau mansion.
Set along a retail-wrought stretch of Calle Colima, Mecha Mancilla designs and handcrafts modern naturalist jewelry. If you’re looking for a made-in-Mexico keepsake souvenir, the 24kt gold-plated hand ring, cradling a luminous emerald, makes a subtle statement. It’s worth ascending the stairs to sift through the treasure trove of pre-loved designer bags and luxury finds like plaid Christian Dior blazers at Irene Buffa. The racks and shelves at 180º Shop are stocked with slow-fashion clothing and accessories, including Mexican-made Pedro Friedeberg collab ponchos and Love & Roses raw denim jackets. Next door, Esperanza Home Colima stocks beautiful, handmade wares such as earthen vases and woven baskets.
What — and where — to eat in Roma
Start the day with pastries and coffee from Panadería Rosetta, one of Mexico City’s most beloved and popular bakeries. Just be ready to wait. Queues can stretch around the block. That’ll give you some time to decide between the signature rol de guayaba (guava roll) and seasonal hits like ricotta lemon-filled pastries.
Head to Campobaja for lunch. The hip upper-level eatery has an industrial edge and is bathed in natural light, creating an inviting setting for diving into fresh scallop ceviche, aguachiles, and tuna tostadas.
For dinner, reserve a table at Meroma, headed by chefs Mercedes Bernal and Rodney Cusic, where globally inflected fine dining dishes are complemented by the cosmopolitan atmosphere and spiffed-up classic cocktails. You’re guaranteed a memorable meal at Máximo, long lauded by locals and out-of-towners alike for ingredient-driven dishes like Pacific lobster tartare and tagliatelle with oxtail beef ragout.
In a destination awash with trendy drinking dens, Licorería Limantour — a constant on The World’s 50 Best Bars list since 2014 — continues its reign as Mexico City’s top spot for tipples, mixing up creative cocktails from its lively, two-story space on Av. Álvaro Obregón.
Where to stay
Brick Hotel... Located on a lively stretch of Calle Orizaba, lined with curated boutiques and upmarket eateries, Brick Hotel defines modern luxury in Roma Norte. It’s sleek and chic with plenty of character — an exterior crafted with early 20th-century bricks, original ceramic tiles in the lobby, and a world-class art collection. For a see-and-be-seen scene, the restaurant is an atmospheric spot to stop for confit duck tamales, a glass of Mexican wine, and prime people watching. The roof terrace feels like an in-the-know escape.
Roso Guest House... Housed in a restored Porfirian mansion, Roso Guest House is a heritage-filled hideaway that blends the hospitality and character of staying with a dear friend and the polish of a well-heeled hotel. Rather than a lobby, there’s a lovely sitting room for check-in and welcome drinks. The tilework and art throughout the property fleck at the vibrancy of Roma Norte. The plant-studded rooftop with swinging chairs and a bar is a lush respite for sipping and exhaling. It’s a quieter alternative to some of the more bustling boîtes, well-suited for travellers lured by the energy of the neighbourhood but prioritise rest.
La Valise Mexico City... For a grown-up getaway — whether that’s a romantic escape or a girls' trip sans screaming kids — La Valise Mexico City delivers an urban fantasy with artisanal flair and cosy quarters that invoke slowing down and never leaving. Each of the eight accommodations is individually decorated with Mexican antiques, hand-loomed rugs, and seductive art. For a stay unlike anything else in CDMX, swing for the Polaris Suite or Cilene Suite, complete with a private rooftop featuring a clawfoot tub and king-size rolling bed for a soak and snooze under the stars.
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