With ski season reaching its peak, discover a revived haven of lofty luxury within the majestic mountain ranges of Teton County, western Wyoming, as a rustic mountain retreat begins a new chapter.
The scent of freshly baked cookies still lingers. So does the feeling of being warmly welcomed into someone’s home — it’s just that now, that home has had a box-fresh, luxe-led makeover. After a devastating fire levelled one of Jackson Hole’s most beloved boutique hotels in 2019, the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa is back — with a bang.
First opened in 1990 by Ron Harrison — who fell for Jackson so hard that he moved his family here all the way from Utah — the original Rusty Parrot was known for its cosy rooms, cast-iron cowboy lamps and a loyal local following that returned year on year. Now under the care of Harrison’s son Brandon, who helped build the first lodge as a teenager, this new iteration honours its cherished heritage while subtly expanding the Rusty Parrot footprint (or boot print, some might say). Incidentally, those intrigued by the ‘Rusty Parrot’ moniker will have to ask in person to find out where the name comes from – the hotel has a long-standing tradition of never allowing the story to be printed.
If the original lodge felt like an all-out throwback to winter on the frontier, the new one achieves a more nuanced balance. Antler chandeliers and moss rock fireplaces nod to mountain lodge tradition, while square-cut timbers, rooftop decks and a soaring central staircase bring in light and lift. There is also a library off the second floor that serves cookies daily at 3pm — a wholesome après tradition, of sorts.
The key count has grown from 32 to 40, with all rooms now perched above street level for better alpine views — the Snow King Ski Area in one direction, a wildlife-filled hillside in the other (don’t be surprised — or alarmed — if you spy a mountain lion). A peaceful courtyard has replaced the old parking lot, while the spa is now a short sashay from the lobby — treatments include an excellent post-ski massage involving deep stretches and warm herbal compresses. The redesigned Wild Sage restaurant, where Chef Hugo Goodwin’s rotating menu (local beef tartare, game meats and smoked crème brûlée are recurrent favourites) is both rustic yet refined. Elsewhere, a snug lounge with a bar and open kitchen offers an intimate setting for après or late-night cocktails.
The hotel’s niche remains the same; tucked away in the lofty heart of Jackson, it’s ideally placed for skiers heading to Teton Village or those wanting to snowshoe Grand Teton National Park. Guests can also book dog-sled rides, snowmobile tours or sleigh trips through the National Elk Refuge — before returning to a soothing hot tub soak under the stars.
MORE TOP PICKS FOR STATESIDE SLOPES
Stein Eriksen Residences, Deer Valley, Utah
Snuggled into a secluded enclave above the Silver Dollar Ski Trail, Stein Eriksen Residences offer a quieter, more residential take on Deer Valley luxury. Ski valets and après lounges — as well as a spa that never skimps on eucalyptus — are balanced by warm Nordic minimalism, all stone, steel and huge windows. Even the smallest retreats feel spacious, with most featuring fireplaces and mountain-view decks. What’s more, there aren’t many places in the world where you can ski directly onto the slope from the hotel lounge. This is the kind of hotel where you settle in for the season, not just the weekend.
Good to snow: Deer Valley is in the process of unveiling its most ambitious terrain expansion ever, which will effectively double the site to over 5,700 acres. New additions include almost 100 ski runs and seven chairlifts, including the East Village Express gondola and Pinyon Express six-pack chairlift. The new infrastructure conveniently connects Park Peak to the brand‑new East Village base, opening access to knock-out landscapes that lead right down to Stein Eriksen and beyond.
Mirror Lake Inn Resort & Spa, Lake Placid, New York
It may have been welcoming intrepid mountaineers since the 1930s, but don’t mistake Mirror Lake Inn Resort & Spa for your grandmother’s old-school Adirondack bolthole. With a lakeside setting straight out of a storybook and a full-service spa that delivers real results, this hotel walks an effortless line between provincial warmth and refined retreat. Guestrooms have been modernised with just enough lodge-befitting accents to retain a rugged allure, while the on-site restaurant turns out elevated takes on locally sourced fare. Come winter, cross-country ski trails can be started right from the doorstep.
Good to snow: A big win for passholders, Whiteface Mountain has officially joined the Mountain Collective Pass collective for the upcoming season. Additionally, those with a SKI3 pass (which includes access to sought-after spots like Gore, Whiteface and Belleayre) can now enjoy discounted lift tickets at premier resort destinations worldwide, including global names like Alta, Jackson Hole and Niseko.
Rusty Parrot's niche remains the same; tucked away in the lofty heart of Jackson, it’s ideally placed for skiers heading to Teton Village or those wanting to snowshoe Grand Teton National Park.
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