A back-to-nature break in the Lake District

Chloe Frost-Smith takes a trip down memory lane in the Lake District, unwinding along Windermere’s alluring shores

Some of my fondest family memories are tied to the English Lakes, which always come flooding back whenever I visit – Sunday roasts and long games of bridge with my grandfather, identifying birdsongs with my granny over tea and Kendal mint cake (or gingerbread from Grasmere if we were lucky), and bedtime Beatrix Potter stories by candlelight in our Cumbrian longhouse. I’ve bagged myself a few Wainwrights over the years, and as much as I’ve romanticised the idea of pitching a tent by a fern-fringed tarn in my head many times, I’d love nothing more than to sink into a cloud-like hotel bed in a fluffy robe, or soak in a deep, bubbly tub after frolicking across the fells. This is exactly what Rothay Manor promises from its picturesque Ambleside setting – easy access to the wild, unbridled beauty of the Lake District, with a cocooning haven to come home to.

Note my use of the word ‘home’, because this really is the sort of place where you can unwind without raising any eyebrows – muddy boots kicked off by the fire, a ginormous cake waiting for you (which you can help yourself to, while swapping stories from the day’s rambles), and an equally ginormous glass of wine in hand as you mull over the stacks of wildlife books and hiking guides thoughtfully placed around cosy, moodily-lit nooks.

The homeliness of this cream-coloured manor is also owed, in large part, to Jamie and Jenna Shail. With a ski-chalet background, these friendly owners are just about as down-to-earth as they come – and can often be spotted out and about with their adorable spaniels, Wren and Bailey. Unlike so many other hotels which claim to accept dogs (but disappointingly turn out to be dog-tolerant), Rothay Manor is quite possibly the most dog-friendly hotel I’ve ever stayed in. My over-exuberant hound Humphrey often exceeds hotel size restrictions (and quite frankly, is a bit bonkers) so it was a joy to have him in tow, no restrictions applied – just lots of treats, his own dressing gown and bed, and a dedicated dog shower in the rather swish boot room.

Rooms are named after local trails, waterfalls, lakes and tarns, and have been stylishly decorated to bring the outdoors in. Whimsical wallpaper by Melissa White and Lewis & Wood in the main house will soon have you dreaming of woodland scenes and fairy-tale creatures, while the earthy colour palette in the recently added Pavilion blends into the surrounding emerald green valleys and rust-brown mountain ridges. The ground-floor Pavilion Suites extend onto private terraces (which are veritable sun traps in fair weather), and some of the upstairs suites have glass-fronted balconies with ruggedly handsome views towards Wansfell Pike.

Though the restaurant is bidding a fond farewell to chef Dan McGeorge, you’ll be well-fuelled for all your outdoorsy adventures with Rothay’s unpretentious menu which changes with the seasons and makes full use of the Lakes’ natural larder. You’ll have ample opportunity to burn off the garlic-glazed lamb belly and sticky toffee pudding (not to mention the cheese trolley), when nearby Windermere’s shores beckon – the largest lake in England is popular for good reason, and is often dotted with paddle-boarders, kayakers, and cruising boats. Wordsworth is said to have penned many of his poems while overlooking Windermere’s enchanting waters, which are just a 10-minute gander through pretty cow-grazed pastures (and over the ruins of a Roman fort) from the hotel.

Ambleside itself is brimming with traditional village charm, with its 17th century Bridge House which was once used by the Braithwaite family to store apples from their orchards (and supposedly avoid paying land tax, genius). Scan the handy QR code in your room for rambling routes with illustrated maps and detailed directions to natural beauty spots like Lily Tarn, Loughrigg Fell, and Sweden Bridges, as well as nature-immersed experiences including guided hikes, off-road driving, and forest bathing. These fell-scrambling, waterfall-scaling expeditions are nearly enough to tempt me to dip my toe into the glamping scene one day, but for now, I’ll be bedding down at Rothay Manor and indulging in all the creature comforts on offer – waking up to (rather than in) the wilderness.