Often described as Paris’ little sister, Bordeaux is a city for people who don’t like cities. It’s noticeably peaceful, much of the city centre is pedestrianised, and it’s picture‑postcard pretty. Not only is the city a destination in its own right, with a flourishing food scene and fantastic shopping, but its proximity to the wine regions of Saint‑Émilion and Médoc makes it the perfect place to spend a long weekend.
Friday Afternoon
Touch down at Bordeaux–Mérignac Airport and make your way directly to YNDÕ Hotel. Housed inside an old 19th‑century mansion and featuring just 20 rooms, YNDÕ is an oasis of calm hidden in plain sight. Don’t let its traditional exterior fool you; inside, the hotel is decked out in funky design furniture, bold art from local painter Yannick Fournié, and freshly picked flowers, giving it a decidedly eclectic feel. Head to your room, freshen up and get ready to explore the city — comfortable shoes recommended.
YNDÕ is well placed within walking distance of all Bordeaux’s main attractions, making it a brilliant base from which to navigate the city on foot. The first stop is L’Alchimiste, where a little caffeine hit is needed before passing to Rue Sainte‑Catherine. The 1.2-kilometre pedestrian shopping street is the longest in Europe and forms the backbone of the city. Expect high‑street heavy‑hitters and local brands side by side; you’ll find local branches of Paris staples Sézane and YSÉ nearby, too.
Friday Evening
When it’s time to eat, La Tupina is a popular spot and has been serving up Gascon classics since 1968. Yes, it’s a little touristy, but for good reason. Farm‑reared côte de bœuf, duck‑fat fries and hunks of country bread emerge sizzling from a wood‑fired hearth where skillets swing on iron chains. If you can’t make a reservation in time, locals love Au Bistrot nearby. Behind forest‑green shutters, this pocket‑sized bar dates from 1900 and still sports its original zinc counter, terrazzo floor and Art Nouveau mirrors. Order a Lillet‑tonic or a verre of Pécharmant and graze on house terrine, Landes air‑dried ham, and their cult “œufs mayo” sprinkled with Espelette pepper. Stay for a digestif; Au Bistrot has one of the best‑value wine lists in the city.
Saturday Morning
Start the morning with a long, leisurely breakfast on YNDÕ’s patio. Make sure you eat a well —pastries and eggs any way you choose — you’re going to need it today. Hop on the tram (or make the 35‑minute walk along the Garonne) to Gare de Bordeaux‑Saint‑Jean. We’re heading to wine country.
Just a half‑hour TER train away (€10 for a one-way billet) lies the small UNESCO‑listed village of Saint‑Émilion. This storybook village is home to some of the region’s finest wine makers thanks to its limestone soils and centuries‑old grape producing traditions. With over 800 vineyards in the area, there’s little shortage of vintages to taste.
Saturday Afternoon
Of course, you can book a wine tour before you arrive in Saint‑Émilion (there are plenty available), but our favourite way to discover the region is to rent an electric bike from Véloce and pootle your way around, stopping at châteaux whenever you fancy. When you pick up your bike, the team at Véloce will happily recommend a route, or you can follow your nose. Pedal along leafy vineyard tracks to sample headline grands crus from Château La Dominique and Château Troplong Mondot, where sweeping views and a Michelin‑starred terrace reward the gentle climb. For an off‑the‑beaten‑track stop, head to Alexandra & Nicolas Robin’s bijou, family-owned Château Rol Valentin, where we recommend trying their Tellus wine. This full‑bodied 75 % Merlot 25 % Cab Franc blend led the Saint‑Émilion classification jury to elevate Château Rol Valentin to Grand Cru Classé.
Saturday Evening
Arrive back in Bordeaux and pick up a box of canelés (the local sweet treat) from Baillardran at the station — you’ll want to take these home with you. You might be ready for bed, but if you are looking for a quick snack and maybe one more glass of wine, then make a pit stop at Blouge on the way back to the hotel. Curated by French‑British duo Caroline Johnston and Josselin Goineau, enjoy one of the city’s most thoughtfully curated natural wine lists, brilliant small plates (from local oysters and salty anchovies to asparagus topped with soft‑boiled egg and capers) all sound‑tracked by 90s pop hits. If you really worked up an appetite with all that cycling, SOIF is another neighbourhood spot serving up just-caught fish in many forms, and more low-intervention wine, in a cosy 20‑cover bar.
Sunday Morning & Afternoon
After a well‑deserved lie‑in and a leisurely breakfast on your terrace, make the pleasant passage along the Garonne to Les Puces de Saint‑Michel, which fills the cathedral square every Sunday morning. Amble south along the water, passing Monument aux Girondins on Place des Quinconces, the mirrored façade of Place de la Bourse and the shimmering Miroir d’Eau, then cross under the arches of the 17‑span Pont de Pierre before the Gothic spire of Basilique Saint‑Michel comes into view. Spend an hour or two rummaging through the 80-something stalls of antiques, vinyl records and postcards hunting for a special souvenir. When hunger strikes, meander five minutes over to Marché des Capucins — also known as Bordeaux’s ‘belly’. Load a market basket with slices of Bayonne ham, creamy Saint‑Félicien cheese, juicy heirloom tomatoes and a still‑warm baguette.
Hop on the C tram for your final stop — a picnic in Bordeaux’s Jardin Public. This flourishing park is the ideal place to recharge and soak up the relaxed Sunday atmosphere of the city —remember, most shops and restaurants are shut today, so you don’t need to rush around. Feast on your market haul to the soundtrack of ducks, playing children and carousel music. Make the short walk back to YNDÕ before heading home feeling fantastically full (canelé box safely packed, of course).
Where to stay
YNDÕ Hotel... Each individually crafted bedroom here is a capsule of creativity. Expect fluid lines, striking light fittings, and eye-catching furnishings that fit with the building’s original features. There’s the Crazy Rooms, which up the aesthetic ante thanks to eye-catching accents and statement furniture. Or So Chic Suites that pair exposed wooden beams with modern designer finds. For an extra-special experience, book one of the YNDÕ Suites, set in the annex.
Share this article
Latest stories
A pocket city guide to Bangkok
Bangkok is a city of intoxicating contrasts, where ancient temples, electric street life, extraordinary food and quietly hidden neighbourhoods collide. From art spaces and buzzing night markets to characterful hotels and brilliant bars, discover the places that make Thailand’s capital so endlessly compelling.
The new hotels we’re booking in September
Whether you’re planning your upcoming skiing holiday, next year’s Greek island escape or thinking ahead to much-needed winter sun in Mexico, this month’s edit of new hotels has something for everyone.
Independent Minds: Susanne Hulbekkmo, Skýra Retreat
In the stillness of Finnish Lapland, beside the waters of Lake Norvajärvi, Susanne Hulbekkmo has created a restorative retreat centred on the constantly changing light and temperament of the landscape that surrounds it. Housed in a painstakingly restored Fifties village school, Skýra Retreat – part of the Wellbeing Collection –
10 of the best hotel rooftop bars to take in the views
There’s a particular pleasure in seeing a city or a landscape from above. Rooftops offer a different perspective on familiar streets — whether that means a cocktail in Soho, a pool overlooking the rooftops of Seville or a table with the Mediterranean stretching out beyond it. From polished hotel bars
