Crete: from the wild west to idyllic east

The historic city of Heraklion is an ideal midway point between Rethymno and the final stop on your Crete itinerary – Agios Nikolaos. If you are short on time, make a beeline for the Palace of Knossos, the most important archaeological site on the island, and the oldest palace in Europe – said to be the setting for the mythical Minotaur roaming the labyrinth here. Excavated and restored by a team led by British archaeologist Arthur Evans, the site is also home to the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion, where history lovers can admire an array of Minoan art and artefacts, from faded frescoes to life-like figurines. For panoramic views of the mountain-backed Cretan capital, make time to visit the small, hilltop town of Rogdia, or the near deserted village of Ahlada.

Tucked between the bijou fishing village of Plaka and elegant port of Elounda, Phaea Blue Palace gazes out across its own private beach towards Spinalonga island. The hotel’s bungalows and suites offer private pools with endless Aegean views, while the Royal Blue Villa features a vast indoor sanctuary and a private heated pool, providing unparalleled luxury, with a private chef and butler to ensure your every need is anticipated and catered to.

From balmy beach days to coastal cruises aboard the hotel’s traditional wooden caique, exploring the Mirabello Gulf, relaxation and adventure are perfectly balanced. Gastronomic delights await at every turn, from the field-to-table Phaea Farmers Feast pop-up restaurant, where guests dine around a communal table in the organic garden, to refined Greek cuisine at Anthós and well-guarded family recipes at the Blue Door Taverna, set in a traditional fisherman’s stone cottage. Suggested stay 2-3 nights minimum.

Once a sleepy fishing village, Agios Nikolaos has become a popular coastal destination for those in the know, while retaining its small town feel. With three waterfronts – the lake (known as “Voulismeni” to locals), Kitroplatia beach, and the marina – everything here centres around the sea. Legend has it that this is where the ancient Greek goddesses Athena and Artemis would come to bathe, so you know the waters are well worth a dip. Head into town in the early morning before the midday heat to browse the many small, independent shops for woven fabrics and rustic ceramics, then stroll along the waterfront to people watch as glamorous yachts bob in and out of the marina. The beach at Kitroplatia is one of the few on the island to provide a town-centre-by-the-sea location, while the tiny, pebble beach at Plaka just outside Agios Nikolaos feels a world away from everything (and everyone!) else.

Regular boat trips run from Agios Nikolaos and Elounda to the eerily beautiful island of Spinalonga. The Venetians built a fortress here in 1579 and the island was used as a leper colony in the 20th century. The atmospheric island has inspired writers and artists for generations – and, more recently, was the setting for Victoria Hislop’s bestselling novel, The Island. Spend the day swimming in secluded coves and simply letting the beauty of Mirabello Bay wash over you.

For quintessentially Cretan accommodation with stunning sea views from both suites and villas, St. Nicolas Bay Resort Hotel & Villas takes luxury island living up a notch. Recently adding eight Thalassa Villas which are named after Greek gods and goddesses and set just steps away from the water’s edge, with indoor-outdoor living spaces, large private pools, and open-plan fully-fitted kitchens, the resort is the perfect choice for families and larger groups looking to swim straight from their villa to the sea. Couples in search of extra privacy should opt for Rock 1 and Rock 2 Suites, which are closest to the seafront and come with their own private plunge pools. The ELEMIS-stocked Poseidon Spa is a haven of relaxation – book the Aphrodite treatment cave for a thalassotherapy session, before sinking into a seat at Astra Bar to watch the dusky pink sunset. Suggested stay 2 nights minimum.

Meanwhile, Elounda Gulf Villas clings to the hillside overlooking the Aegean Sea and the Gulf of Mirabello with spectacular views towards Spinalonga Island. With just 18 private villas, each with its own private infinity pool and 15 stylish suites, this is a true haven of Cretan hospitality. Enjoy a massage in the privacy of your villa before savouring a selection of Cretan wine and a platter of cheese sourced from local farms, by the main pool. As evening approaches, reserve a table at Daphni Restaurant for gourmet Greek cuisine with a side of sea views. Suggested stay 2 nights minimum.