An insider’s guide to island hopping in the Seychelles

Nestled in the heart of the Indian Ocean, the Seychelles archipelago is a bucket-list destination known for pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters and palm trees that extend into the sky as if by magic. Though known for drawing honeymooners to its screensaver-worthy shores, the Seychelles is so much more than just a destination for newlyweds and offers ample opportunity for any island-hopping travellers to explore. 

In a wonderful twist of fate, it turns out my in-laws have emigrated to this little corner of Africa and so this affords me the opportunity to visit them on a few different occasions. And, whilst visiting a handful of times doesn’t quite qualify me as an ‘insider’ just yet, it has allowed for the Seychelles to feel a little more like home with each trip.

With 115 islands in total, it’s impossible to visit them all, but in curating a holiday that covers exploration of a few key islands, you’re able to experience their differing charms. Whether it’s renting a beach buggy and discovering hidden coves, taking a hike in the rainforest, snorkelling off the side of a boat in emerald-green waters or stopping for a cocktail at a bar with panoramic views, here’s how to plan a three-stop trip to the islands of Mahé, La Digue, and Praslin. 

Mahé : The Gateway to Seychelles

Mahé, by far the largest island in the Seychelles, serves as the gateway for most travellers. The flight landing alone will leave you in awe — the runway looks like you’re touching down on the ocean from the window — and once you’re safely on the ground, you’ll find it’s a little larger than you’d think. So, first thing’s first — hire a car to explore.

Mahé has a lot to offer, and depending on what your agenda is, can cater to a range of travellers. Love relaxing on beaches and spending your days swimming cove to cove? Some of our favourite beaches to visit include Anse Attendance, Anse Soleil, Sunset Beach (the perfect spot for a Seybrew and a pizza at lunch), Port Launay and Beau Vallon. If you want something a little different, hire a beach buggy via Dakar Buggy Hire — run by a brilliant ex-pat from the UK who restores vintage Volkswagens — and tour the island in style.

If you’re a keen hiker, you can hike the Morne Seychellois National Park, where lush rainforests and panoramic views await. Or pop into the vibrant Sir Selwyn Selwin Clarke Market in Victoria for a taste of local life and affordable souvenirs.

La Digue: A laid-back Paradise

After a few days exploring Mahe’s charms, take a short boat ride to La Digue via the Cat Coco ferry service. On La Digue, you’ll find a very laid-back island renowned for its granite boulders and impossibly white beaches that regularly feature on ‘world’s best beach’ lists. This is my personal favourite island because of its slow pace, its jaw-dropping sunsets and the fact that you can only get around by bicycle.

La Digue is home to two of the most breathtaking beaches in the world, both of which you can only access by bike. Grand Anse is a romantic stretch of beach, made for strolling down its entire length before diving into the ocean. On the other side of this small island, you’ll find Anse Source d’Argent. With its iconic granite formations and turquoise waters, it’s hidden in the grounds of the L’Union Estate. Cycle through and explore the plantation before walking and swimming at each little cove until you end up at Cabana Beach Bar, a rustic spot with hammocks, sea swings and the most exquisite fresh juices. To make your time here even more special, book onto a guided tour with Crystal Water Kayaks. These glass-bottomed kayaks are incredibly picturesque and the tour guides share local stories anchored in the coves of Anse Source D’Argent, including taking you to sights where Robinson Crusoe was filmed and teaching you basic survival skills, as well as how to crack and eat your own coconut (which is not as simple as it sounds).

While on La Digue, make sure you also stop for a sundowner in the hidden garden bar at the back of Le Repair restaurant, before heading for the island’s best steak at Le Nautique, overlooking the lapping shores with impeccable service and an expansive menu. Another great spot for a low-key dinner or lunch is Natural Bar, a barbecue-grill spot which wouldn’t look out of place in the roadside jungles of Tulum. Stop off for a swim and a Seybrew at Bikini Bottom beach bar, where you can meet Mango, the 80-something-year-old tortoise. La Digue is perfect for a day trip, but if you really want to fall in love with the island, I recommend staying over a couple of nights.

Boat day

If this puts the Seychelles even higher on your wish-list, then fitting in a day or two out on the water is a must; it’s the best way to experience this slice of paradise.

Hiring a boat for day trips (either in groups or private) is simple and the best spot to start is either Mahe or Praslin. Rent a catered catamaran and make your heading for Curieuse Island, where hundreds of tortoises roam free in their natural habitat, followed by snorkelling and diving near the private islands of Félicité, Grande Soeur and Silhouette.

Photographs by Annie McMonagle-Wilmot

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