Bangkok is a city of intoxicating contrasts, where ancient temples, electric street life, extraordinary food and quietly hidden neighbourhoods collide. From art spaces and buzzing night markets to characterful hotels and brilliant bars, discover the places that make Thailand’s capital so endlessly compelling.
The vibrating, low grumble of Bangkok’s brightly coloured tuk-tuks is what always strikes me first when I’m back in the city. Whether strolling the Thai capital’s storied streets beneath vast tangles of electric cables or whizzing around in one of its distinctive three-wheelers, I’m always filled with a sense of exhilaration and joy by that futuristic sound – so different from the tuk-tuks in Sri Lanka, where I live.
Over the past 15 years, I’ve visited Bangkok countless times and with each return, I become more enchanted by the city’s many layers. The bold colours and atmospheric sounds make up just part of the Thai capital’s appeal, but it’s the deep respect and passion that its residents hold, mingled with a spiritual sacredness, that ensures Bangkok is consistently hailed as one of the best places in the world to visit. Add to the mix an extraordinary food and drink scene, fascinating historic neighbourhoods to get lost in and well-curated hotels, it’s easy to see why so many who visit return time and time again.
With the recent opening of contemporary art space Dib Bangkok, and stand-out villas like Siri Sala opening their bedrooms for individual bookings, it’s the ideal time to get to grips with this addictive city.
What to see and do
Swerve the tourist crowds at The Grand Palace and head instead to the lesser-visited Wat Arun or Wat Suwannaram Ratchaworawihan, which is filled with the most incredibly detailed murals. While the former commands attention with its ceramic mosaic-covered stupa, the latter is a contemplative temple which subtly featured in The White Lotus season three. Not too far away, and set back from the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is Bangkok’s Kudi Chin neighbourhood, home to a unique Siam-Portuguese community that makes the ideal place to spend a few hours.
With winding alleys that meander past historic wooden homes, traditional bakeries and The Baan Kudichin Museum, it’s a peaceful pocket of Bangkok that many visitors miss. Open 24 hours a day, the capital’s flower market (Pak Khlong Talat) is a hive of activity day and night. Simple plastic bags overflow with bright orange marigold blooms, bulbous lotus flowers and purple orchids, while chains of fragrant jasmine sit on beds of crushed ice waiting to be bought as offerings.
Having recently opened, Dib Bangkok offers the chance to view a private collection spanning 70 years, all under one roof. Housed in a repurposed 1980s steel warehouse, it is founded by passionate collector and businessman Petch Osathanugrah, showcasing pieces by renowned artists like Louise Bourgeois alongside brilliant Thai artists such as Thaiwijit Puengkasemsomboon and Surasi Kusolwong.
Where to shop
Hip Talat Noi, with its hidden pathways and abundance of photogenic street art, hides a multitude of brilliant shops and speciality coffee spots, like La Cabra, to escape the heat of the day in between browsing.
Still standing after more than two centuries, and now primarily a restaurant, Real Rare House Talat Noi houses a fun shop found just as you enter, selling pretty tiffin boxes, intriguing trinkets and homewares that will elevate any space instantly. The gem of a building is worth a detour alone for its majestic interiors. Meanwhile, Warehouse 30, not too far away, is a creative hub filled with art spaces, pop-ups, well-curated stores and workshops. It’s worth keeping an eye on their Instagram page for the latest updates.
For fashion finds, local dwellers in the know adore The Blooming Story for its whimsical prints and stylish silhouettes, while I’m Not A Morning Person stocks brilliant Thai designers and plenty of reworked vintage. And don’t forget to bookmark Pace Shoes, whose appointment-only showroom can be found in Wang Thonglang. Insta-worthy orchid embellished kitten heels deserve a spot in your suitcase home, or it’s possible to customise a pair of sandals for true one-off style.
Where to eat and drink
From high-end eateries to fluoro-lit night markets, incredible bites are waiting to be sampled on almost every street. A few non-negotiables include snacking on fresh mango and sticky rice at Saleethip, slurping Thai milk tea from any busy roadside stand, and trying Khanom Bueang (tiny crispy crepes filled with coconut cream, sesame and sweet egg yolk threads) from the small shop on Thanon Wang Doem Road, near Wat Arun.
In terms of night markets, Talat Phlu is a must. Be sure to seek out Sunee Khao Mu Dang (crispy char-grilled pork and rice) stands and the odd-sounding but delicious Itim Khai Khaeng, consisting of ice cream topped with various nuts and, curiously, an egg yolk.
For restaurants, there are so many good picks, including the local-loved Sri Trat, not too far from Sukhumvit metro station, for flawless modern Thai and Duet by David Toutain for Thai-French fusion in the most elegant of surroundings.
And with hundreds of cocktail bars calling the city home, including not one, but two entries on the global 50 best list (BKK Social Club and Bar Us), choosing where to go for a nightcap can be overwhelming, to say the least.
For me, Nuss bar wows with shimmering Wat Pho views and heady sips like the Wintermelon Punch, while The Photobooth is a dimly lit speakeasy with a banging soundtrack and innovative blends that really embrace Thailand’s array of stand-out flavours and ingredients. Arriving in a novelty teddy bear-shaped vessel, Teddy’s Tonic is a complex, zingy and intriguing blend that sees whiskey mixed with soy milk and IPA – it’s wildly delicious.
Where to stay
Siri Sala Private Thai Villa... Previously only available as a complete buyout, owners Irma Go and husband Kirati Thepsoparn have recently opened each of their villa’s five immaculate bedrooms for individual bookings, making Bangkok’s prettiest residence more accessible than ever. Located on a serene riverside spot in the Bangkok Noi area of the city, days drift lazily by, only punctuated by Thai massage, hosted cultural activities like lotus flower folding and Ya Dom (traditional Thai herbal inhalers) workshops, as well as refreshing pool dips. Food, service and decor are all a solid 10/10 and daily room rates include activities, massage, home-cooked meals and cocktails served in the Heritage Bar, which you might recognise from The White Lotus.
137 Pillars Suites Bangkok... This locally owned bolthole features one of Bangkok’s most photogenic infinity pools with views spreading right across the city and magical sunset vistas. Bedrooms are immaculate and bright, there’s a quirky afternoon tea offering that’s not to be missed, and breakfast is served all day, which is a welcome relief for those struggling with jet lag. Complimentary sunset drinks are served every day from 6 pm each day.
Oriental Residence Bangkok... Located on Wireless Road in Bangkok’s tree-lined embassy district, and just a short stroll from leafy Lumpini Park, Oriental Residence Bangkok feels like a secret luxury enclave within Bangkok’s vibrant centre. Spacious suites have been designed with soft neutral tones, dark wood floors, and elegant furnishings. While bedrooms feature marble bathrooms and balconies with city or garden views.
MUU Bangkok Hotel... This surprisingly affordable Thonglor district hideaway is decked out in custom furniture, plenty of colourful accents and has some of the friendliest staff in the city. Of the eight room categories, ranging from spacious kings to three-roomed suites, all provide luxurious bed linens, minibar counters and spacious marble bathrooms. There’s also a complimentary hotel shuttle to help whisk visitors to Thong Lo station for super-easy access to the rest of Bangkok.
The Sukhothai Bangkok... A serene green theme subtly runs throughout this five-star hotel, from the lily pad-covered waterways and perfectly manicured upper and lower level gardens, right through to velvety green headboards and interior design flourishes of the Sukhothai Club wing bedrooms. The grounds' tropical gardens are a delight alone, but there’s also a full-scale 25-metre swimming pool with an adjoining cafe and bar to enjoy. Thai and Italian meals can be found within the hotel’s two restaurants.
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