A fresh look at one of the world’s oldest cities
Complicated histories, converging cultures – the Jerusalem of today is vibrant and dynamic. Where the footsteps of pilgrims echo alongside the calls of market sellers. Hot, busy, but bursting with the traditions, flavours and colours of a global diaspora, here’s everything you need to navigate this unforgettable melting pot.
A short round-up of Jerusalem’s must-see sights…
The Western Wall: Over 4,000 years of history come together at this spot – the gaps between ancient stones now filled with tiny scrolls carrying the prayers of millions of Jewish pilgrims.
The Dome of the Rock: A golden beacon rising from the limestone walls of Temple Mount, this iconic Islamic Shrine is as intricate inside as out.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre: The final stop on the Via Dolorosa that winds its way through tragedy, to redemption.
Yad Vashem: Peaceful, moving, urgent. Israel’s Holocaust museum, where a single candle of remembrance is reflected for eternity.
The Israel Museum: Ancient treasures and modern marvels meet in a fascinating cultural complex.
Mount of Olives: A historical panorama. Take in the multi-faith views of this 3,000-year-old biblical landmark.
… and a longer look at Jerusalem’s lesser-known spots
Hidden histories
Beneath the streets (and away from the fierce midday sun) lies another city – an ancient Atlantis, where kings once walked. Visit the Siloam Tunnel to see the remains of a biblical water system, believed to be the work of King Hezekiah as he prepared for an impending siege. Or return to the cornerstone of the Jewish faith, entering the subterranean space beneath the Old City on a tour of the Western Wall Tunnels.
Secrets of the shuk
For a true taste of the city, Machane Yehuda Market (or the shuk to locals) is the place to start. As extensive as it is eclectic, you’ll find everything from fresh-cut flowers to fragrant herbs, street art to street beats. Come for the sights and sounds – but stay for the food. Think patchwork pyramids of spices, golden plaited breads and pistachio-dusted baklava. There’s even an Israeli interpretation of fish and chips – where the fish comes from nearby market stalls and is served with a shot of anise-infused Arak.
A spring in your step
Dive into another landscape entirely with a trip to Ein Lavan – a clear-water spring just a short bus (or bike) ride from the bustle of downtown Jerusalem. In the shade of the olive groves, this still pool is the perfect place to pause and reflect.
What – and where – to eat in Jerusalem
For coffee…
Look for the modest hole-in-the-wall vendors, where Turkish coffee comes black, strong and laced with cardamom.
For breakfast…
It has to be shakshuka. Although its origins are hotly contested, perfectly poached eggs in a richly spiced sauce have become a weekend staple here.
For hummus…
Head to the hills and the Arab-Israeli village of Abu Ghosh, where hummus ful is served with an earthy broad bean topping and piles of fresh-from-the-oven pitta.
For fuel on the go…
Switch up your regular falafel order for sabich – pitta bread stuffed with tahini-drizzled aubergine, hard-boiled egg and salad.
For foodies…
A stone’s throw from the shuk, Machneyuda is a restaurant that embodies the market-to-table philosophy. Energetic and dynamic, the always-changing menu is reliably delicious.
For hot days…
Refresh and reset with a limonana – a frozen blend of lemon and mint that’s become Israel’s national drink.
And cool nights…
It’s all about the new city, where the winding avenues around Zion Square are home to nostalgic bars, emerging music and free-flowing Arak.
Historic hideouts
With a history as varied as the city it calls home, The American Colony Hotel is the perfect Jerusalem base. Expect Ottoman-inspired architecture and secluded gardens at the gateway to the Old City.
Or – for something completely different – swap Jerusalem’s terraces for the rooftop terrace of The Norman Tel Aviv. Just an hour’s drive away, spend the weekend among the Bauhaus curves of the White City for another side to this country’s colourful history.
Latest stories
A seaside staycation in Rye, East Sussex
The tide keeps changing on this medieval magnet, a pretty hilltop hub that’s been luring in East London creatives and interesting interior designers for years. And now, there’s a strong batch of smart spots to bed down, a cool natural wine vineyard just outside of town, and an endless supply
FORESTIS: the Dolomites’ ultimate ski-and-spa retreat
Discover snow and serenity at summit-level sanctuary FORESTIS. There, an enlightened ethos of sustainable, natural-world wellbeing finds a welcome home amongst the breathtaking peaks and pines of the Italian Dolomites. There’s always something magical about arriving at a hotel in the evening. My husband and I have just landed in
An insider’s guide to island hopping in the Seychelles
Nestled in the heart of the Indian Ocean, the Seychelles archipelago is a bucket-list destination known for pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters and palm trees that extend into the sky as if by magic. Though known for drawing honeymooners to its screensaver-worthy shores, the Seychelles is so much more than just
A ceramicist’s guide to Copenhagen
See the Danish capital through the eyes of local artist Malene Knudsen, as she takes us on a tour of her favourite studios, showrooms, and exhibition spaces in one of Scandinavia’s most fêted design destinations. Working out of her Copenhagen studio, Danish ceramicist Knudsen transforms raw stoneware clay and recycled
