THE LOWDOWN...
Sowaka is more than just a hotel, it’s a lifestyle. The word itself literally translates to ‘happiness’ in Sanskrit, and for those that take note, can often be heard chiming through Kyoto’s elaborate temples as a parting blessing at the end of Buddhist sutras. It’s this slow-paced, easy living, and exquisitely chilled out mantra that defines the Sowaka experience best. A perfect marriage of old meets new, 21st century ryokan living delivers at this deeply creative, masterfully curated sanctuary of peace and quiet.
SET THE SCENE...
The hotel is slap-bang in the middle of the action in Kyoto’s famed geisha and UNESCO-listed district, Gion. Despite its Hollywood-esque location, the beauty of checking in here is that it doesn’t feel like you’re in a tourist hotspot at all. In the shadow of a string of landmark temples, shrines and go-to boutiques, Sowaka is cocooned from sight thanks to a cobweb of low-rise bamboo façades and narrow stone streets (a godsend following a long day navigating the city’s cherry blossom-crazed, kimono-loving crowds).
Speaking of exploring, you couldn’t be better placed in the Old Town. Everything from the Yasaka Jinja shrine to the Kōdaji and Kiyomizudera temples are all within walking distance. Plus, when the time comes to escape, Kyoto’s main station is a mere 15-minute cab ride west.
STYLE POINTS?
It’s traditional ryokan chic on a grand, almost poetic scale — that of a haiku, one might say. Sowaka carries much of Kyoto’s rich heritage in near-effortless style. Think tree-lined paths, irresistibly atmospheric sukiya-inspired spaces flushed with rays of natural light, and a medley of rare antiques and modern artworks dotted about the maze-like place.
The moody aesthetic is thanks to 100-plus artisans and craftspeople whose generational skills have transformed the former teahouse into a labyrinth of winding creaky wooden corridors, sliding shoji screens, circular rice-papered windows, exquisite carvings, abstract portraiture, and minimalist speakeasys that ooze all shades of storied and contemporary Japanese design. The overall Sowaka essence is peaceful sanctuary meets throwback living, and the inn delivers on all accounts.
TELL US ABOUT THE ROOMS...
Blissfully unique. Rooted in traditional architecture, you’re most likely to do as I did and gasp, “wow” upon walking into any of Sowaka’s 23 rooms. Why? Everything about them screams character, offering a welcome sight that instantly sets it apart from the hotel’s nearby corporate neighbours.
Digs are split across the main old house and a newly constructed demi-palace built from the ground up by acclaimed local architect Shigenori Uoya. Plaster walls, washi paper windows and cute alcoves, garden vistas, and roomy wooden tubs sum up the main building’s boudoirs, while minimal clean-lined interiors, abstract textiles and angular window frames eyeing Kyoto’s rooftops headline Uoya’s more modern offering.
Beds are ultra-comfy and made in the Iwata Prefecture using top-notch quality natural wool. And yes, millennials and Gen Z, mod-cons are also part of the deal in these blast-from-the-past chambers, from high-speed USB ports to rapid heating and air-conditioning amenities.
THE FOOD & DRINK?
Well, there’s a Michelin star on the table, thanks to the hotel’s destination restaurant Gion Loka, sister to Tokyo’s famed fine dining hotspot of the same name. While this may sound a little formal, it’s very refreshingly relaxed on all counts with its omakase-style grub served and plated with smiles and good chat.
On the menu, expect traditional Kyoto cuisine in the form of 10 eye-bulging courses. As it’s all seasonal, the menu changes regularly, but expect cyclical seafood from crab to tuna, veg (pickle is a staple in these parts), and tender meats beautifully presented in bric-a-brac crockery. Finish it all off with sake, naturally, though if you are a novice like me, take the sommeliers’ advice, as the selection can be daunting.
Come breakfast, you can either go full-on Japanese or continental, in the form of the usual eggs, sausage, fresh juices and more. Our advice is to go for the more traditional option for a good schooling in local dishes. Hearty and delicious, hand-made tofu, grilled fish, and soup are the real deal, alongside some seriously good roasted teas to wash it all down.
ANYTHING ELSE TO NOTE?
Sowaka is very well connected, so it’s worth sitting down with the concierge to discuss all of the unique experiences available through the hotel. Tailored shenanigans come in the form of behind-the-scenes tours of the Kiyomizudera temple; exclusive geisha dinners (so worth it); sunrise and sunset temple visits, and — if you’re into your shrubs and florals — private garden tours led by local experts.
The overall Sowaka essence is peaceful sanctuary meets throwback living, and the inn delivers on all accounts.
Latest stories
10 of the best hotel rooftop bars to take in the views
There’s a particular pleasure in seeing a city or a landscape from above. Rooftops offer a different perspective on familiar streets — whether that means a cocktail in Soho, a pool overlooking the rooftops of Seville or a table with the Mediterranean stretching out beyond it. From polished hotel bars
Surfing holidays: where to stay for the best waves
From Costa Rica and Brazil to Bali and Spain, the world’s best surfing destinations combine serious swells and beginner-friendly breaks with a laidback lifestyle and nature. This is our pick of seven top spots around the globe for catching waves – and the boutique hotels to stay at.
The Wellbeing Collection turns one
As the Wellbeing Collection celebrates its first anniversary, we take a closer look at some of the hotels shaping the world’s most restorative wellness experiences. Each is deeply rooted in its sense of place, with the surrounding landscape, local traditions and cultural heritage shaping everything from treatments and food to
The new boutique hotels for August bringing destinations to life
This month’s edit of new boutique hotels focuses on places with stories to tell, from historic estates in the likes of Ireland and Romania and a family-owned vineyard in Champagne to a remote retreat in Ladakh shaped by local traditions.
