Baroque buildings, thermal baths and generous helpings of goulash. What’s not to love about Budapest? Long regarded as a drinking stop on every gap year youth’s interrailing itinerary, the Hungarian capital has a seriously grown-up side that makes for an ultra-chic city break. Thankfully, we have just the hotels to match.
A short round-up of Budapest’s must-see sights…
Fisherman’s Bastion: Sitting majestically on the Buda hillside next to the castle, this viewpoint is the first point of call to get a bearing on the city. Trot along the delicately walled walkway and spy the Hungarian Parliament below through the arched stone.
Liberty Bridge: There’s something so ornate about this sage-green iron structure that connects Buda and Pest across the Danube River. It makes for a marvellous sight against the sandy buildings either side of it, especially when lit up come dusk.
St. Stephen’s Basilica: The largest church in Budapest claims a prime position at the top of the pedestrianized Zrínyi Street, marking the classical centre of the city.
Széchenyi Thermal Bath: Picture Budapest baths and Széchenyi most likely comes to mind, with its mustard yellow façade and wide, open outdoor pools filled with locals and tourists alike. This is the grand dame of the city’s thermal scene — if not in Europe — and with 15 indoor baths and three grand outdoor pools, plus saunas, steam rooms and a rooftop spa greenhouse, it’s easy to spend an entire day here.
Central Market Hall: Try not to be totally charmed by this enormous food market. Crisp fruit, glossy vegetables and bunches of dried paprika chillis cascade over the many stalls, while tins of caviar and cakes are stacked up enticingly against the glass displays. Don’t skip a humble Hungarian lunch served in the little cafés that line the upper balcony.
...and a longer look at Budapest’s lesser-known spots
Gellért Thermal Bath
The lesser-known little sister of Széchenyi, Gellért has a more mysterious and refined feel to it. With 10 pools of various sizes, bathers are blessed with the Art Nouveau taps and tiling that colours the waters sourced directly from Gellért Hill.
Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library
Just steps away from Hotel BoHo Budapest in the academic area of Józsefváros, this neo-baroque library is well worth the entrance fee. Students in sports trainers are found draped over the old desks working away, unphased by the visitors who tip-toe past to admire the various reading rooms and famous wooden spiral staircase.
What — and where — to eat in Budapest
Budapest has two famous coffee houses that are sights in themselves. New York Café has been a favourite of writers and editors over the centuries and that history is palpable when walking through its opulent doors. Café Gerbeaud offers a more easy-going charm but with all the classic fare. Don’t miss a slice of the house Eszterházy cake — fine layers of walnut sponge with vanilla cream and a snow-white fondant glaze. Heaven.
For a modern take on Austro-Hungarian classics, head to Tati, a farm-to-table restaurant where the freshest seasonal ingredients are served in a low-lit setting of leather banquettes. Think soft stuffed cabbage rolls, chicken paprikash with pickled and sweet cottage cheese dumplings for dessert.
A Budapest city break wouldn’t be complete without a piping portion of beef goulash. While available almost everywhere, no-frills Fecske Presszo serves this paprika-infused stew with homemade noodles buttered in local ewe’s cheese, attracting a crowd of local Bohemians discussing big ideas after work or study.
Spare some room for lángos — a deep-fried dough served with sour cream, shredded cheese and other toppings of choice. Perfect fuel for sight-seeing.
If Szimpla Kert rings a bell, that’s probably because it’s one of Europe’s most iconic nightlife spots. Known as the ultimate ruin bar for a reason, Szimpla is a maze of bars and club rooms, all varying in degrees of kitsch and grit. Head to the upper level for some of the more low-key hideouts and beats.
Where to stay
Hotel BoHo Budapest... Bohemian in name and in nature, this boutique recently opened its doors onto the buzzy Mikszáth Kálmán tér square. Guests are spoilt for choice between the classic suites of the historical main house and the minimalist modern extension. Situated in the middle of the Palace District, the buzzy Jewish Quarter is nearby, perfect for some late-night activity — just remember to set an early-ish alarm so as not to miss the homemade cheese biscuits (pogácsa) served warm at breakfast.
Kozmo Hotel Suites & Spa... If the epic staircase isn’t enough of a reason to pay a visit to Kozmo, perhaps the courtyard terrace, library, underground spa, and fine dining will be. Multiple suites come with private terraces complete with views for miles over the city skyline. Come evening, Restaurant Kozmo is a sultry spot that’s perfect for a cocktail and à la carte. The grand boulevards are close by, and so are the tram routes that circle the high-end shopping district. This is classical Budapest at its best.
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