Grunge, grace and grit…just some of the words used to describe the goddess of reinvention, Athens. She’s the Madonna of cities, the cradle of democracy, the living anarchic mash-up of feudal architectural gravitas, and a place never afraid to show off her overwhelmingly striking creativity. A metropolis of the ages, the divine Athena is once again having a moment. Here’s some of the best things to do now, off-season or under the luminous halo of the fiery summer heat.
Photographs by Luke Abrahams
A secret underground tour…
Yeah, the Acropolis, Temple of Nike and the Parthenon deliver the city’s must-see attractions but beyond the obvious, some of Athens’ coolest spots are hidden well beneath the city’s streets. Most are only accessible via private tours so it’s well worth booking before you touch down on the runway as they often sell out fast.
A go-to (aptly named Secret Athens) comes courtesy of Kedros where guides take you to an underground museum, a Roman Crypt housed inside the Russian Church, an old war shelter hidden from view in an apartment block and cisterns buried within the oldest house in Athens. Along the way you visit all the big hitters, including Plaka, the Old City and Syntagma Square learning all about the city’s storied past and urban legends.
Local foodie finds…
Even if you are just staying here for three days don’t let that put you off from perusing one of the city’s awesomely well-stocked Farmers Markets. Whole blocks across Athens from dawn until the late afternoon transform into grand, seasonal-first bazaars that sell everything from root veg to chestnuts, olives, honey and herbs to pop in your suitcase. Expect the odd performance from a busker and a master-class in haggling from some overly charismatic stall owners. The most popular markets can be found in Exarchia and Neos Kosmos on Saturdays, along with Pangrati and Koukaki which both take place on Friday.
The arts scene…
The arts scene in Athens right now is a grand schooling in all things trendy and contemporary. Though it took a while to semi-overshadow the classics (all those ancient Greek pots) the National Museum of Contemporary Arts has hit a sweet spot since Katerina Gregos took the helm as the museum’s artistic director. Well over 100 large-scale installations dazzle in the permanent collection. The entire museum occupies a whole block and, on either side, you’ll find a soirée of cult landmarks, including Onassi Stegi (check out all the cool talks and festivals) and more.
Further afield, ice-cream-factory-turned-art-centre Breeder Gallery hosts all kinds of artists, including British export Luke Edward Hall. For something a little more blast from the past, the Benaki Museums house everything from Byzantine icons to traditional folk-ware to Islamic art. If you’ve got another day to spare, the Stavros Niachos Foundation Cultural Centre is a great shout. Expect oodles of cultural and environmental headlining gigs throughout the year. The arty complex also includes the Greek National Opera as well as the National Library of Greece.
300,000 Kisses by Luke Edward Hall courtesy of the Breeder Gallery (November 2023)
The one must-see ruin…
The Tower of The Winds is no secret. The Pentelic marble tower has been in Athens since the second century and has been impressing everyone with its beautifully functional astronomical slay factor for yonks. For years you could only ever walk around this perfectly ancient weather station, but that’s since changed post pandemic as you can now gawp inside its exceptionally preserved 24 stone panels. Spend a while (battling your fellow tourists is worth it) to get a glimpse of a patch of a Byzantine angel fresco and to gaze up at the stone roof, the only remaining original of its kind in the entire city.
Cinema Paradiso…
Athens is a city of hardcore cinephiles. Yes, there are all the blockbusters and that, but in this part of the world, arthouse flicks and retro cinemas reign supreme. Most spots come alive in the summer – 60 or so open-air cinemas spring to life May through August – and are hidden on rooftops, in ruins, in parks or even in between locals’ houses. The best? Cine Thisio has the most striking of locations set under the Acropolis. Expect gourmet snacks, boozed-up regulars, and dizzying Parthenon views.
Boutique vintage chic…
Athens doesn’t play when it comes to a vintage steal. Practically every neighbourhood is home to some kind of nick-nack or relic worthy of a prime spot on your coffee table. Monastiraki is a great spot for flea market trophies. Think handmade jewellery, summer clothes, old cameras, storied regal prints and a load of Aladdin-esque carpets.
Bookshops are also fast becoming the new hip coffeehouses in Athens. The finest come courtesy of Zatopek, a peaceful Soho House-style spot to chill with a laptop amongst piles of books and bartenders stirring up cheeky spritzes; Meteoritis in Kypseli is all about second-hand books and fun talks; and Lexikopoleio in Pangrati houses an exhaustive selection of books about the land of Greece.
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