The best of Ireland & Northern Ireland: an Emerald Isle itinerary

The Wilder is one of the few residents-only townhouses in Dublin and is tucked away in beautifully manicured gardens within walking distance from the famous Iveagh Gardens and St. Stephen’s Green. This charming, red-brick Victorian townhouse fuses modern minimalist style with original period features, and boasts sumptuous Gin and Tea Rooms. Suggested stay 2 nights.

If you’re short on time, taking the speedy M8 motorway route from Dublin will have you in Cork in around three hours. But should you wish to see more of the Emerald Isle en route, there are scenic stop-offs galore including the Wicklow Mountains, Kilkenny Castle, and Rock of Cashel. Cork itself is encircled by the River Lee, giving this harbourside city an island feel set to a soundtrack of local folk songs and crashing waves. Best enjoyed from the water, charter a private boat or kayak and float past the city’s colourful waterside buildings and elegant Georgian architecture – you might just spot dolphins frolicking in the foam.

Wrapped in lovingly restored Victorian gardens scented with lavender, myrtle and rosemary, The Montenotte Hotel epitomises the chic urban retreat, just a 15-minute walk from the city centre. Sip gin-infused cocktails while soaking up the rooftop views from The Glasshouse, followed by a film night in the Cameo Cinema. Culture-seekers can appreciate the ‘Wild Life Invited’ works by artist Nathan Neven until January 2023, as part of The Montenotte’s ‘artist in residence’ programme in association with The Gallery Kinsale, which aims to support Irish artist by offering a six-month tenure to showcase in the hotel. Suggested stay 2 nights.

Just under an hour and a half’s drive will take you from Cork to the charming heritage town of Kenmare, set against a dramatic mountain backdrop on Ireland’s spellbinding west coast along the Wild Atlantic Way. Affectionately known as the ‘Jewel in the Ring of Kerry’, this pretty town is home to artisan shops, independent breweries, and quirky art galleries, with a thriving foodie scene and traditional farmers market.

One of the oldest landmarks set in the heart of town, The Lansdowne Kenmare was once home to the Earl of Shelbourne and has been reimagined today as a stylish retreat where you can expect a traditionally warm Irish welcome. A world of contemporary comforts await in the light-filled bedrooms, while LK Café promises home-baked cakes to stock up on for all your sightseeing. Suggested stay 1-2 nights.

After winding your way along a verdant 45-minute drive which skirts the national park, the colourful, flag-fluttering town of Killarney will come into view. As part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Killarney National Park, the town makes the perfect base for nature-filled day trips hiking through hectares of mystical woodland and around glittering lakes, spotting red deer darting across wild flower meadows.

Nestled on a private estate at the edge of the rugged Killarney National Park, yet within walking distance of the town’s traditional pubs, Cahernane House Hotel is a Victorian manor house turned ivy-clad country house retreat. Curl up on a sink-into sofa beside a crackling fire and look out onto the distant Purple Mountains and moss-green landscape, or draw a bath in your free-standing claw-foot tub. Suggested stay 1-2 nights.

Break the three-hour journey from Killarney to Galway with a quick culture fix in Limerick, an ancient city on the banks of the River Shannon with a millennium-old castle, and an elegant Georgian quarter, before entering the cultural heart of Ireland. If visiting towards the end of July, the Galway International Arts Festival turns the streets into a circus of colour and creativity, while the words of James Joyce, Seamus Heaney, Roger McGough and more can be found engraved on plaques throughout the city year round, each featuring a poem or piece of writing about the setting you’ll read them in.

Famed for its fresh-from-the-coast oysters, Galway is also home to Michelin-starred restaurants and colourful market stalls, though it’s often best to make like the locals and indulge in some beachfront fish and chips on Galway Bay.

On the shores of Lough Corrib with the wildly beautiful Connemara landscape stretching in all directions, Glenlo Abbey Hotel and Estate feels a world away from the everyday – with 138 private acres of escapism to enjoy on foot, bicycle, or horseback. For a truly unforgettable dining experience, step aboard the Pullman Restaurant which serves locally sourced dishes in two restored Orient Express carriages in the Glenlo grounds. Suggested stay 2 nights.