From its historic buildings and artistic masterpieces to the very reflections shimmering on its waters, Venice has long captured the imagination as a city of colour. Here, see The Floating City in an intriguing new light, stripped to its purest essence in a cinematic black-and-white cast.
Sometimes the best stories to be found within The Floating City are hidden within the quiet canals, shadowy nooks, and secluded corners. This is especially true during the ‘shoulder seasons’, when the crowds dwindle and the locals emerge from hiding.
FOLLOW THE CANALS
The best way to tune into the captivating rhythm of Venice is to wander down streets you don’t know. Turn left when you’re meant to turn right. End up in a neighbourhood that wasn’t on your radar. Every hidden corner and mysterious alley forms part of a different scene that pulses to the city’s unique beat.
PENSIONE, PER FAVORE
Venice is full of glitzy palazzi, but it’s sometimes the humble B&B — or in Italy, the ‘pensione’ — that has the most charm. They are also known for attracting interesting people. Late British restaurateur and chef Russell Norman was known to frequent this particular pensione during trips to forage regional ingredients for his London trattoria, Brutto.
COFFEE STOP
With over 300 years of history and a location in St. Mark’s Square, the venerable institution of Caffè Florian may attract visitors in their droves (as its prices reflect), but in-the-know travellers choose it for its enduring old-world charm. Waiters in white coats balance towering silver platters of espresso, cornetti, and quivering receipts in a delicate dance through the red-boothed coffee house. Top tip — go sit at the bar. You get the best view of the baristas at work, and they’ll charge you slightly less.
GONDOLA GAZING
Each trailing its own love story across the water, spot striped gondoliers navigating Venice’s maze of canals. These vessels are usually more fun to admire than to ride, but it just wouldn’t be Venice without them. Stop off at bacari Osteria al Squero for cicchetti and views over a bobbing gondola boatyard.
LAUNDRY DAY
Across the city, washing lines are crisscrossed high above the
street, flapping with starchy linen air-drying in the sunlight.
GRAND CANAL
Venice is a dream destination to see by foot, but it’s not the only way to explore the city. Hop aboard a vaporetto water taxi to appreciate historic buildings in all their glory. Afterwards, head over to the islands of Giudecca and Lida for even better waterfront views.
ABRIDGED VERSION
While it’s true that famous bridges like the Rialto and Accademia are stunning architectural feats, sometimes it’s the city’s tiny, hop-over ponti that can stand out more amongst memories of a Venetian trip.
BEFORE BURANO WAKES
On the island of Burano, take advantage of the locals’ afternoon riposo, when shutters close and the canal waves cool. Now is the time to book a table at Trattoria Al Gatto Nero or Trattoria da Romano for the island’s delicious take on fish risotto. Chefs here use gò, a bony lagoon fish that is traditionally cooked whole for a number of hours to create a flavourful and super creamy delicacy. Come hungry.
SEE THE SIGNS
In a city as enchanting as Venice, even the smallest details can look beautiful, such as this police sign.
A DRAMATIC DESCENT
Head to the Olivetti Showroom on the edge of Piazza San Marco, designed by eminent architect Carlo Scarpa in the late 1950s. Now a museum filled with mid-century design and vintage typewriters, Scarpo’s signature stairwell is particularly striking.
CULTURAL CONNOISSEURING
Arrive early to beat the crowds at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, found within the famed American art collector’s former home on the Grand Canal. Amongst her incredible, eclectic personal collection are works by the likes of Warhol, Calder, and Dali.
A QUICK-HIT GUIDE TO VENICE
- STAY — Ca’ Sagredo Hotel (pretty-in-pink palazzo), Ca’ di Dio (sustainable splendour), Hotel Ai Reali di Venezia (Rialto Bridge-adjacent), Sina Centurion Palace (Grand Canal grand dame), Sina Palazzo Sant’ Angelo (opulent oasis)
- EAT — All’Arco for cicchetti and Trattoria Antiche Carampane for spider-crab spaghetti
- DRINK — Vino Vero for natural wine and Harry’s Bar for bellinis
- SHOP — Piedàterre for Venetian slippers and Il Papiro (Calle del Piovan, San Marco 2764) for divinely hand-marbled stationery
- DO — It’s hard to leave Venice but there’s a sleepier side to the city on its neighbouring islands of Murano and Burano
Latest stories
Spain photo diary: from Madrid to Mallorca
From Mallorca’s rugged Serra de Tramuntana, and Gaudí’s wonderfully whimsical architecture in Barcelona, to the mouthwatering tapas served down tiny side streets in Madrid’s city centre, Spain truly has something for everyone. Not forgetting the beaches; Spain is home to some of Europe’s most coveted coastal destinations, where golden sands meet
How to spend a slow weekend at Nomad Mykonos
Known for its bustling beach bars and affluent nightclubs, Mykonos also has a slower side to its Cycladic shores, found in luxurious yet minimal boutique hotels such as Nomad, tucked away on the south-east of the island. This is the ideal base for anyone seeking a calming retreat, whether you’re
This refashioned farmhouse hideaway embodies Tuscany’s timeless beauty
Overflowing with rustic charm and evergreen allure, guests of Lupaia inevitably fall head over heels for every cossetting corner of this Tuscan countryside escape. Pair homely comforts with five-star service, and an ever-changing bill of fare rooted in the region’s organic offerings, and you’re sure to keep coming back to
Where to stay in May: 8 boutique hotels to book now
Sitting perfectly on the cusp of summer, just before European beaches begin to fill to the brim, May is one of our favourite months to travel. City breaks are sunny but not unbearably hot, the countryside is in full bloom, and even further flung, tropical climes are balmy, breezy, and
