From its historic buildings and artistic masterpieces to the very reflections shimmering on its waters, Venice has long captured the imagination as a city of colour. Here, see The Floating City in an intriguing new light, stripped to its purest essence in a cinematic black-and-white cast.
Sometimes the best stories to be found within The Floating City are hidden within the quiet canals, shadowy nooks, and secluded corners. This is especially true during the ‘shoulder seasons’, when the crowds dwindle and the locals emerge from hiding.
FOLLOW THE CANALS
The best way to tune into the captivating rhythm of Venice is to wander down streets you don’t know. Turn left when you’re meant to turn right. End up in a neighbourhood that wasn’t on your radar. Every hidden corner and mysterious alley forms part of a different scene that pulses to the city’s unique beat.
PENSIONE, PER FAVORE
Venice is full of glitzy palazzi, but it’s sometimes the humble B&B — or in Italy, the ‘pensione’ — that has the most charm. They are also known for attracting interesting people. Late British restaurateur and chef Russell Norman was known to frequent this particular pensione during trips to forage regional ingredients for his London trattoria, Brutto.
COFFEE STOP
With over 300 years of history and a location in St. Mark’s Square, the venerable institution of Caffè Florian may attract visitors in their droves (as its prices reflect), but in-the-know travellers choose it for its enduring old-world charm. Waiters in white coats balance towering silver platters of espresso, cornetti, and quivering receipts in a delicate dance through the red-boothed coffee house. Top tip — go sit at the bar. You get the best view of the baristas at work, and they’ll charge you slightly less.
GONDOLA GAZING
Each trailing its own love story across the water, spot striped gondoliers navigating Venice’s maze of canals. These vessels are usually more fun to admire than to ride, but it just wouldn’t be Venice without them. Stop off at bacari Osteria al Squero for cicchetti and views over a bobbing gondola boatyard.
LAUNDRY DAY
Across the city, washing lines are crisscrossed high above the
street, flapping with starchy linen air-drying in the sunlight.
GRAND CANAL
Venice is a dream destination to see by foot, but it’s not the only way to explore the city. Hop aboard a vaporetto water taxi to appreciate historic buildings in all their glory. Afterwards, head over to the islands of Giudecca and Lida for even better waterfront views.
ABRIDGED VERSION
While it’s true that famous bridges like the Rialto and Accademia are stunning architectural feats, sometimes it’s the city’s tiny, hop-over ponti that can stand out more amongst memories of a Venetian trip.
BEFORE BURANO WAKES
On the island of Burano, take advantage of the locals’ afternoon riposo, when shutters close and the canal waves cool. Now is the time to book a table at Trattoria Al Gatto Nero or Trattoria da Romano for the island’s delicious take on fish risotto. Chefs here use gò, a bony lagoon fish that is traditionally cooked whole for a number of hours to create a flavourful and super creamy delicacy. Come hungry.
SEE THE SIGNS
In a city as enchanting as Venice, even the smallest details can look beautiful, such as this police sign.
A DRAMATIC DESCENT
Head to the Olivetti Showroom on the edge of Piazza San Marco, designed by eminent architect Carlo Scarpa in the late 1950s. Now a museum filled with mid-century design and vintage typewriters, Scarpo’s signature stairwell is particularly striking.
CULTURAL CONNOISSEURING
Arrive early to beat the crowds at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, found within the famed American art collector’s former home on the Grand Canal. Amongst her incredible, eclectic personal collection are works by the likes of Warhol, Calder, and Dali.
A QUICK-HIT GUIDE TO VENICE
- STAY — Ca’ Sagredo Hotel (pretty-in-pink palazzo), Ca’ di Dio (sustainable splendour), Hotel Ai Reali di Venezia (Rialto Bridge-adjacent), Sina Centurion Palace (Grand Canal grand dame), Sina Palazzo Sant’ Angelo (opulent oasis)
- EAT — All’Arco for cicchetti and Trattoria Antiche Carampane for spider-crab spaghetti
- DRINK — Vino Vero for natural wine and Harry’s Bar for bellinis
- SHOP — Piedàterre for Venetian slippers and Il Papiro (Calle del Piovan, San Marco 2764) for divinely hand-marbled stationery
- DO — It’s hard to leave Venice but there’s a sleepier side to the city on its neighbouring islands of Murano and Burano
Latest stories
Making tracks: a train journey taking in six European cultural capitals
It’s official – inter-railing is back, as travellers increasingly swap flights for the speed and ease of Europe’s rail network. Think zippy connections, city-centre arrivals, and stress-free border crossings: train travel is one of the fastest, most convenient, and still sustainable ways to explore the continent. Get ready for a
Independent Minds: Sheila Kyarisiima, The Pinnacle Kigali
High above Kigali on Rebero Hill, The Pinnacle offers sweeping views across the city, bringing contemporary luxury together with a strong sense of place. What began as a private family retreat has evolved into a destination that celebrates Rwanda’s culture, creativity and community. Here its founder, Sheila Kyarisiima, shares the
A postcard from: Piedmont with Sina Villa Matilde
Piedmont may be one of Italy’s less-travelled regions, and that is precisely part of its appeal. Sitting at the foot of the Alps, the landscape is a mix of rolling hills, family-run wineries and elegant country estates, with excellent food and wine at its heart – some might even say
Our edit of hotels to book in October
From a colourful restored villa in glamorous Capri to a private island with overwater villas in Indonesia, October brings a new crop of hotels worth knowing about. These are the openings catching our eye this month – some are historic properties given a new chapter, while others bring contemporary flair
