As you drive into Cefalù, the dramatic Rocca di Cefalù towers over the town’s sandy-hued buildings, setting a history-steeped scene for this once-humble fishing village. While tourism has certainly made its way here, this beloved Italian beach destination still holds onto its character, feeling far less polished than Taormina on Sicily’s east coast, and all the more special because of it. You can easily see the highlights in a day, but it’s worth settling in for two or three nights to really soak it all in. Cefalù also makes an easy getaway from Palermo, with a direct train that links the cities in just under an hour.
What to do in Cefalù
The best way to experience Cefalù is by slowing down and embracing the true sense of la dolce vita. Spend your days wandering through town, laying out at the beach, and eating delicious Sicilian food. Really, the ideal way to spend a holiday, isn’t it?
- The Old Harbour: Porta Pescara frames the small beach at the old harbour, lined with rows of blue umbrellas. It can be tricky to find a spot, but there’s usually a little patch of sand where you can drop your towel or rent a chair for the day. At golden hour, set up along the concrete seawall for the best views. It’s a postcard-worthy shot of Cefalù.
- Cefalù Beach: A long, crescent-shaped stretch of sand that spills into the clear waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The water stays warm from summer through early autumn. You can pay for a lounge chair or find a spot along the public beach.
- Lavatoio Medievale: Walk down the lava-stone staircase to this centuries-old wash house built over the River Cefalino to get a peek into medieval-era Cefalù.
- La Rocca: A steep but rewarding climb, best tackled in the morning before the afternoon heat sets in. The 238-metre summit and 3.4-kilometre out-and-back trail are worth it for the spectacular views over Cefalù and the surrounding coastline.
- Cefalù Cathedral: The centrepiece of town, this Norman-style cathedral is nearly a thousand years old. Step inside to admire the impressive mosaics. It’s worth a quick visit, even if you’re not usually one for churches.
- Viccolo Caracciolo: A small, pebbled staircase lined with colourful Sicilian pots overflowing with flowers.
- A Lumera di Brocato Giuseppe & C. S.n.c.: A beautiful ceramics studio well worth a peruse. Bright red, blue, and yellow Sicilian pots and plates fill the shelves. Outside, you might catch one of the artisans at work, shaping a pigna, which is a traditional Sicilian pinecone symbolising good health and fortune, adorning homes all across the island.
What — and where — to eat in Cefalù
Any trip to Sicily is as much about the food as it is the sights. While the food scene in Cefalù leans a little touristy, there are still a few authentic spots to seek out.
First things first: where to find the best cannoli in Cefalù? Definitely not at the shop on the main street, where dozens of cannoli sit out all day. Instead, head out of the old town to Via Aldo Moro, where you’ll find Gelateria Pasticceria Cangelosi, a small, family-owned sweet shop selling gelato, biscotti, and what turned out to be the best cannoli I sampled in Sicily. While you’re there, make sure to try the Sicilian cartocci too (a sugar-dusted, spiral-shaped doughnut filled with cream or ricotta).
The granitas in Cefalù aren’t anything to write home about, but you can get a pretty good scoop at Amorelli Graniteria Siciliana.
For seafood, try Locanda del Marinaio or La Botte, known for its freshly prepared pasta and fish dishes.
Where to stay
Leave the buzz of Cefalù behind and slow down at Le Calette N°5, a seafront boutique hotel cradled in the verdant hills just beyond La Rocca. The rooms are light and breezy; some look out across the Tyrrhenian Sea, others have views of the emerald-green hills that surround the property. With whitewashed walls, bright bougainvillea, and pockets of Mediterranean flora all around, it feels like your own private beach escape.
This family-run hotel gives you access to multiple beaches, including its own Calette Reef Beach Club. You can spend the day lounging by the pool, stretching out along the rocky shoreline, or dipping in and out of the sea.
The hotel also offers a few thoughtful extras, like spa services and massages, and even boat trips along the glittering shorelines if you’re up for a coastal adventure.
The best boutique hotels in Sicily
Susafa, Polizzi Generosa... A deeply soulful escape in rural Sicily, this Considerate Collection hotel is a lovingly restored 200 year old farmhouse where farm to table dining, olive oil pressing, and cherry harvest gatherings forge an intimate connection with the land.
Hotel Villa Carlotta, Taormina... Perched above the shimmering Ionian, this aristocratic villa turned boutique retreat marries antique elegance with modern flair—think sumptuous rooftop dining overlooking Etna and breakfasts on a panoramic terrace bathed in golden Mediterranean light.
Hotel Villa Ducale, Taormina... High on the hills above Taormina, this romantic retreat where rich, vibrant interiors and lush gardens frame jaw-dropping panoramic views of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea — perfect for sipping an aperitivo as the sun dips beneath the horizon.
Donna Carmela Resort & Lodges, Carruba di Riposto... Hidden among citrus groves at Etna’s foothills, each lodge offers nature-immersed luxury and volcanic stone hot tubs, with a garden-to-garnish restaurant dedicated to sustainably sourced Sicilian cuisine.
Q92 Noto Hotel, Noto... Housed in a lovingly restored 18th century palazzo, Q92 is a temple to Baroque refinement—with bespoke furniture and a hushed courtyard terrace overlooking the cathedral on the banks of the Corso.
Villa Athena Resort, Agrigento... Gazing across the Valley of the Temples, this elegant villa offers landscaped gardens, sun drenched poolside dining, and sweeping views of classical ruins, melding archaeological grandeur with spa based tranquillity.
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