Zermatt is one of Europe’s premier winter destinations, and for good reason. Spanning both Switzerland and Italy, it connects with Cervinia to create one of the largest ski areas in the world. This car-free alpine village, reachable by train from Switzerland’s major cities, looks like it’s straight out of a storybook. The Matterhorn towers above at nearly 4,500 metres, framed by jagged peaks and a cosy valley filled with traditional Swiss chalets. While mini electric taxis zip around town, everything is walkable within 15 to 20 minutes.
Zermatt is a skier’s paradise, but it’s just as appealing for those who prefer to stay off the slopes. Ride the Gornergrat railway, one of the highest in Europe, for sweeping views, snowshoe along trails near the ski runs, or ascend to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise at nearly 3,900 metres, where you can see Italy on a clear day.
Back in town, standout dining, luxury spas, and high-end shopping round out the experience, making this a truly all-around winter escape. This guide covers the best of Zermatt in winter: what to do, where to eat, and of course, where to stay.
SKI
The slopes are easy to reach from Zermatt village, with access to the entire mountain by rail, funicular, and chairlift.
Sunnegga is the most convenient to reach — just hop on the underground funicular right in the centre of town. It’s across from several ski rental shops, so it’s easy to grab your gear and head straight to the slopes. At the top, you’ll find a mix of beginner and intermediate runs. This area is ideal for newer skiers, with gentle lifts around Findeln and even a designated bunny hill. For something a bit more challenging, head higher up toward Rothorn, where you’ll find some solid intermediate pistes.
Gornergrat’s cogwheel railway winds its way up to a series of long, scenic runs. From the top, you can ski moderate pistes down to Furi, or follow more relaxed routes down to Riffelberg and back. It’s a beautiful area with wide trails, great for both beginner and more advanced skiers.
At the far end of town, the Furi lift serves as a gateway to some of the resort’s most connected terrain. From here, you can branch out to Riffelberg, Schwarzsee, and all the way up to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise via the Matterhorn Express. From the top of the glacier, you can ski over into Italy and explore the Cervinia side of the resort. Just note: the runs from Glacier Paradise are mostly red and black pistes until you descend further into Cervinia, so it’s best suited for intermediate to advanced skiers.
APRèS
Cafés
Nothing hits quite like a warm cardamom bun before a day on the mountain, and Backzeit Bakery is the perfect spot for a pre-ski breakfast. Later in the day, head to Petit Royal Café for hot chocolate and pastries. Don’t miss the Budapest, a meringue roll filled with cream and seasonal fruit.
Bars
Set inside a cosy wooden chalet in town, Harry’s Ski Bar is the place to go after a day on the slopes — it’s always packed. Papperla Pub is another favourite. For ski-in options, Hennu Stall near Furi brings the party slope-side, and Adler Hitta, just above Findeln, has both great energy and stunning Matterhorn views.
Restaurants
A fondue dinner is practically a requirement in Zermatt, and Walliserstube is the best place to go. For something more upscale, Spycher delivers on fine dining — order the Chateaubriand flambé. Whymper Stube is another solid choice for fondue and classic Swiss fare.
SKI-IN DINING
For a truly memorable ski-in meal, book a table at Chez Vrony, just off the Sunnegga lift near Findeln. We ordered what felt like half the menu, and everything was excellent. If you can, snag an outdoor table for unbeatable Matterhorn views. Just uphill from Chez Vrony, Findlerhof is another fantastic choice with equally good food and scenery. Near Furi, Bergrestaurant Blatten rounds out the list with its hearty dishes. Be sure to book all of these spots well in advance as they fill up fast during ski season.
SLEEP
Hotel Schweizerhof Zermatt... Hotel Schweizerhof is a chic boutique hotel right in the heart of Zermatt, just a short walk from the train station and steps from the village’s best shops, restaurants, and lifts. Warm-toned wood panelling and thoughtful design give the interiors a fresh, modern take on classic Swiss alpine style. Some rooms have balconies with direct Matterhorn views, while the indoor pool and Jacuzzi are the perfect spot for a post-ski wind-down. With excellent dining and an unbeatable location, this hotel is a stylish, comfortable base for your winter escape.
EXPLORE SKI HOTELS
Share this article
Latest stories
Independent Minds: Daniel Shamoon
When your calling is to create the most sought-after boutique destinations on the globe, how do you define what makes a luxury hotel truly exceptional? Off the back of his major renovation of Hermitage Bay, a nature-immersed Caribbean escape on Antigua’s golden west coast, SLH co-owner Daniel Shamoon delves into
A wellness-boosting itinerary through Portugal: from the Algarve to Alentejo
Beyond the Algarve’s beach umbrellas and Lisbon’s tiled alleys lies a version of Portugal where nature leads and wellbeing follows. These wilder corners offer stillness, slowness and something that’s increasingly sought-after by today’s travellers — a deep and meaningful connection to nature.
Why sailing the Nile by dahabeya is the most timeless way to experience Egypt
Aboard the beautiful Storia the Dahabeya, a four-day journey down the Nile comes to life with a thousand senses, from the snap of linen sails to the scent of sun-warmed papyrus drifting on the wind. We glide past palm-fringed banks and golden temples that continue to glow at dusk. Gentle
In with the new: from vineyard retreats to island hideaways these are the hotels on our radar in April
Spring brings a renewed sense of movement and with it, travel that feels both restorative and enriching. Some stays are steeped in nature, from Finland’s forested stillness to Corsica’s sunlit groves, while others unfold among the vineyards of California, Piedmont and beyond. Elsewhere, island rhythms take hold in Rhodes and
