Opens in a new tab

The ultimate Zermatt ski guide

Zermatt is one of Europe’s premier winter destinations, and for good reason. Spanning both Switzerland and Italy, it connects with Cervinia to create one of the largest ski areas in the world. This car-free alpine village, reachable by train from Switzerland’s major cities, looks like it’s straight out of a storybook. The Matterhorn towers above at nearly 4,500 metres, framed by jagged peaks and a cosy valley filled with traditional Swiss chalets. While mini electric taxis zip around town, everything is walkable within 15 to 20 minutes.

Zermatt is a skier’s paradise, but it’s just as appealing for those who prefer to stay off the slopes. Ride the Gornergrat railway, one of the highest in Europe, for sweeping views, snowshoe along trails near the ski runs, or ascend to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise at nearly 3,900 metres, where you can see Italy on a clear day.

Back in town, standout dining, luxury spas, and high-end shopping round out the experience, making this a truly all-around winter escape. This guide covers the best of Zermatt in winter: what to do, where to eat, and of course, where to stay.

SKI

The slopes are easy to reach from Zermatt village, with access to the entire mountain by rail, funicular, and chairlift.

Sunnegga is the most convenient to reach — just hop on the underground funicular right in the centre of town. It’s across from several ski rental shops, so it’s easy to grab your gear and head straight to the slopes. At the top, you’ll find a mix of beginner and intermediate runs. This area is ideal for newer skiers, with gentle lifts around Findeln and even a designated bunny hill. For something a bit more challenging, head higher up toward Rothorn, where you’ll find some solid intermediate pistes.

Gornergrat’s cogwheel railway winds its way up to a series of long, scenic runs. From the top, you can ski moderate pistes down to Furi, or follow more relaxed routes down to Riffelberg and back. It’s a beautiful area with wide trails, great for both beginner and more advanced skiers.

At the far end of town, the Furi lift serves as a gateway to some of the resort’s most connected terrain. From here, you can branch out to Riffelberg, Schwarzsee, and all the way up to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise via the Matterhorn Express. From the top of the glacier, you can ski over into Italy and explore the Cervinia side of the resort. Just note: the runs from Glacier Paradise are mostly red and black pistes until you descend further into Cervinia, so it’s best suited for intermediate to advanced skiers.

SKI-IN DINING

For a truly memorable ski-in meal, book a table at Chez Vrony, just off the Sunnegga lift near Findeln. We ordered what felt like half the menu, and everything was excellent. If you can, snag an outdoor table for unbeatable Matterhorn views. Just uphill from Chez Vrony, Findlerhof is another fantastic choice with equally good food and scenery. Near Furi, Bergrestaurant Blatten rounds out the list with its hearty dishes. Be sure to book all of these spots well in advance as they fill up fast during ski season.

Previous

Lofts, lodges, and lagoon villas: top boutique hotels for November

Next

Family ski holidays in France: where to go in the French Alps for all ages

Latest stories

Where to stay: our pick of new hotels that bring their destinations to life

From a Japanese island retreat to a Danish coastal hideaway, we look at seven new member hotels that take their cues from the landscapes around them. Each brings its own perspective on design, wellbeing and a sense of place, whether deep in the mountains or by the Mediterranean. Helenekilde Badehotel,

Celebrating five years of the Considerate Collection

What does it mean to travel considerately? It might be a centuries-old farmhouse given a second lease of life in Transylvania; a Venetian landmark carefully restored with a heating and cooling system that uses lagoon water; or an island kitchen serving a plant-based feast made with seaweed gathered just offshore.

Making tracks: a train journey taking in six European cultural capitals

It’s official – inter-railing is back, as travellers increasingly swap flights for the speed and ease of Europe’s rail network. Think zippy connections, city-centre arrivals, and stress-free border crossings: train travel is one of the fastest and most convenient ways to explore the continent. Get ready for a whirlwind journey

Independent Minds: Sheila Kyarisiima, The Pinnacle Kigali

High above Kigali on Rebero Hill, The Pinnacle offers sweeping views across the city, bringing contemporary luxury together with a strong sense of place. What began as a private family retreat has evolved into a destination that celebrates Rwanda’s culture, creativity and community. Here its founder, Sheila Kyarisiima, shares the