Lisbon

The ultimate Lisbon city guide

Colourful charm cascades over the Portuguese city of seven hills

Once the centre of the seafaring world, this ancient European capital is steeped in ceramic-sprinkled charm and terracotta-topped character. Sunshine yellow trams trundle up and down the cobbled streets, Douro Valley wine flows freely from mosaic-tiled bohemian bars, and buzzy barrios are filled with the sweet scent of freshly baked pastel de nata – the moreish custard tart you won’t be able to get enough of during your stay in Lisbon. The slow flowing waters of the River Tagus wind their way beneath the iconic San Francisco-style bridge, past pastel-coloured buildings and seafood-centric restaurants – stretching towards the Atlantic Ocean which puts this coastal city within easy reach of golden beaches and surfing hot spots.

A short round-up of Lisbon’s must-see sights…

Castelo de São Jorge: The snaking ramparts of this hilltop fortress have kept watch over the city since the 11th century. Come for the Moorish history, stay for the sweeping views over Lisbon’s burnt-red rooftops towards the glittering Tagus.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos: This UNESCO-listed monastery is a fantastical vision of twisting auger-shell turrets, scalloped arches, towering columns, and mythical creatures in the pretty Belém district.

Sé de Lisboa: Lisbon’s cathedral is a 12th-century showstopper of Romanesque style, with its fortress-like façade and rose window.

Tram 28E: Can you really say that you’ve visited Lisbon without riding its charmingly rickety century-old tram from Praça Martim Moniz to Campo de Ourique?

Alfama: Don your comfiest shoes to navigate the steep, cobblestone streets of this ancient district, which was once a Visigoth town turned sleepy fishing quarter – and is now home to a flourishing creative, artisan community.

Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira: Portuguese tiling meets Italian Renaissance in this 17th-century hunting lodge in the residential neighbourhood of Benfica. The Marqueses de Fronteira are still in residence, and have beautifully maintained the baroque architecture, landscaped gardens, and Knight’s Tank.

Praça do Comércio: With the striking statue of Dom José I mounted on his horse Gentil at its centre, trams rattle past the lemon-meringue coloured archways which line this grand riverfront square.

Museu Nacional do Azulejo: The exhibits housed within this 16th-century convent turned hand-painted tile museum display almost every kind of azulejo imaginable.

Basílica da Estrela: An aesthetically-pleasing pink and black marble interior awaits inside the white, curving cupola – along with the twin bell towers which peep out above Lisbon’s skyline. Save your strength to climb the dome’s 112 stone steps and you’ll be rewarded with swoon-worthy views.

Torre de Belém: A marvel of Manueline architecture, this ornately-decorated fort has stood guard over the Tejo Estuary since the 16th century – with North African-inspired watchtowers, filigree detailing, and a stone rhinoceros.

What — and where — to eat in Lisbon

Whisper those three little words – pastel de nata – and you’ll soon be in love with Lisbon’s baked goods. Though best sampled in its birthplace of Belém (the queues for Pastéis de Belém regularly run down the street), there are plenty of pastelarias (pastry shops) dishing out these egg-based sweet treats. Manteigaria bakes every tart by hand each morning, and hits the not-too-sweet spot when it comes to the creamy, vanilla filling.

Unsurprisingly, the seafood scene is also strong, with hearty plates of Bacalhau à Brás (shredded salted cod on a bed of potatoes, onions, and eggs with plenty of parsley and garlic), Pastéis de Bacalhau (herby fried fish cakes), and grilled sardines on most waterfront menus – you can also pick up some colourful cans of sardines to take home with you. Street-food wise, you’ll want to add bifana (sautéed, marinated pork sandwiches) to your must-try list. Follow the locals to O Velho Eurico, a cosy restaurant on a corner near Castelo de São Jorge for classic Lisbon dishes with a twist in a laid-back setting. Wash all of this down with home-grown wine, Sagres beer, and sour shots of Ginjinha, a Portuguese liqueur infused with Morello cherries and cinnamon.

pastel de nata

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