Its glittering, villa-strung shores are backed by emerald-green mountains, setting a scenic and incredibly stylish stage for slow days spent on Lake Como’s waters — preferably from a private pontoon and vintage Riva boat. Over a spring weekend, Lex Duff checks in to Grand Hotel Victoria Concept & Spa for the lowdown on lakeside luxury.
Recently re-opened for the season, Grand Hotel Victoria stands proud on the shoreline of the small town of Menaggio, looking across the lago at the, perhaps more famous Bellagio, and we’re all the more spoilt for it. Lucky enough to spend three days in the lap of luxury overlooking the mountains that cradle the area, the water that spills up onto the shorelines and the dotting of old-luxury speedboats, the vibrant Italian flags flapping behind them in the wind, it’s easy to understand why Lake Como has been the favourite haunt of Roman Emperors and A-List celebrities alike.
Hiring a car and driving from Milan is the perfect way to arrive, traversing the winding roads as you increasingly catch glimpses of the much-lauded lake as it comes into full view. From the moment you pull into the driveway of Grand Hotel Victoria to be greeted by the valet concierge, to the glass of prosecco handed to you at check-in, the concept of experiential travel has been perfected here. And yet, there is no pomp or fuss, no attempt to compete with the natural beauty that completely surrounds the space, an honouring of the grandiosity of the lake with the floor-to-ceiling windows that allow you uninterrupted views of the vast expanse of water and the hotel’s own dock.
It’s a rare day of storms for this time of year and after we leave our bags in our breathtaking room with its own Juliet balcony, we head to the hotel’s crown jewel: the Erre spa. Housing the largest relaxation area in all of Como, just one visit to Erre Spa can work wellness wonders. Floating from the Finnish spa to the pool, from the various steam rooms to the cold-burst areas, it is the perfect way to settle into a rainy afternoon here. We drink herbal teas and even manage to doze off on the day beds encircling the gently lapping water of the main pool.
The rain lasts until the next morning, and watching the clouds float past the windows from the lush king-size bed, espresso in hand, is a refreshingly slow start. I feel like I’ve relaxed a year’s worth in a single day.
It feels intimate. Like we are seeing a lesser-known side to the towns of Como while the raindrops dimple the lake. We spend the day driving around the area and surrounding villages and later in the day, as the sun starts to set and the clouds part, we retreat to the comfort of the hotel’s bar. We sip our Negronis as the sky shifts from blue to pink to purple as the sun goes down, admiring the high ceilings, antique detailing, oversized gilded mirrors and an ornate fireplace.
That evening, we are treated to dinner overlooking the lake. Each dish is carefully created to please not just the taste buds, but all the senses. Given our proximity to the water, seafood is the natural choice — our waiters show the perfect level of attentiveness without hovering, and their guidance on wine and dessert choices are a much-appreciated addition to the experience. The scallops are other-worldly — especially when paired with a regional red wine — and the ‘golden egg’ dessert was a memorable ending, when artisan chocolate is dropped from a height onto your plate. We are effusive in our thanks as we roll ourselves to the lift and into bed, bellies and camera rolls full to the brim.
The buffet breakfast for our final morning is a sight to behold. A long marble slab, bookended between Renaissance artworks, an omelette station and the most aesthetic, Ferrari-red prosciutto slicer I’ve ever seen, is the setting for the extensive array of colazione to start the day. A coffee, an orange juice and even a little gluten-free croissant with a side of fruit salad leaves us feeling fuelled for the day’s adventures on the lake.
The hotel plans to take us out on the water, picking us up from the wharf in front of the hotel, to see Como from the ‘other’ vantage point (some say its best angle).
It’s one thing to come to Como to look for ‘the Clooneys’, it’s another entirely to feel like them on your stay. With our own private tour and explanation of the region, we spend the hour with mouths agape at the beauty of the local landscape, the terracotta towns dotting the hillsides and the show-stopping architecture and history of the most famous structures in the area. We even stop for a small swim in the lake, much to the surprise of our skipper who considers the springtime far too brisk for leaping off the back of the boat.
Lake Como is a place so often talked about that it’s easy to think one knows what to expect, that perhaps the hype isn’t as accurate as one could be led to believe. And as so often happens with places of luxury and beauty, it’s easy to allow the commentary to persuade your ideas. But there is nothing overrated about Como. Like all beautiful corners of Italy, there is always more to it, another element that meets the eye and locals whose pride in their home is ever palpable. If heaven is on earth, I’m now more convinced that it might just be in Como, and that Clooney may be onto something…
Latest stories
Our top boutique stays for June
From a baroque waterfront retreat on Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor to a design-led hideaway in Goa and an alpine sanctuary overlooking Lake Tegernsee, these are the hotels we’d like to check into this June
The most stylish hotels in Rome
Architecture approved by the gods, gastronomy that once fuelled gladiators, and Italian style that has remained timeless for centuries — a trip to the Eternal City never fails to inspire and nourish the soul with its beauty. Anchored by a stay at the recently opened Palazzo Talia, we then venture
Crowd-free alternatives to our favourite European destinations
Long days with the sun stretching late into the evening. Lazing on the beach after slow lunches of fresh seafood dressed with olive oil and lemon. Following unmarked paths off the map to beautiful views and empty coves. Spontaneous encounters with locals in sleepy villages. Flavourful fruits and vegetables glowing in the
Island swing: Island hopping from Mykonos to Naxos
When travelling in search of slow, sensory wellbeing, the Cyclades islands have much to offer, from small rituals and restorative nature to poignant moments of humanity that are best experienced and reflected on at leisure.
