On the eastern coast of Zanzibar, a tropical idyll of sand, sea, and spice, Amani Boutique Hotel poses a masterclass in barefoot luxury and laidback living.
Unguja, more widely known as Zanzibar, has been a bucket list destination of mine for as long as I can remember. Not only for its idyllic white-powder beaches lapped by Indian Ocean waves, and sunset-streaked skies, but also for the rich, complex nature of the island and its people. 15 miles off the coast of Tanzania, Spice Island has something to offer every kind of traveller, from the UNESCO-protected capital, Stone Town, with its towering mosques and stained glass windows, to its stretches of pristine sand and turquoise waters. It’s the latter where you’ll find Amani Boutique Hotel. This tiny 14-room hideaway is situated on the palm-lined Paje Beach, one of the most beautiful shores on Zanzibar’s south-east coast.
We arrive at Amani, an adults-only slice of paradise, in the early afternoon. Greetings come in the form of a juice made from fresh mango and ginger, a welcome thirst-quencher for the day’s balmy 33 degrees. After admiring the hotel’s lobby, a clean, airy space decorated with rich textures and whimsical objets d’art, we set our sights on the private beach, with sand so white that it takes a while for our eyes to adjust to the brightness.
Each room offers a front- or side-facing view of the ocean, with four-poster beds swathed in mosquito nets covering the hand-carved headboards. There’s even a walk-in wardrobe to house the inevitable over-packed shoes, which of course I don’t wear — after all, Amani is the definition of barefoot luxury.
Dinner is served in the open-air restaurant which runs an à la carte service five nights a week, while the other two evenings alternate between local cuisine and an international theme. Our visit is perfectly timed to enjoy a traditional Swahili feast of fragrant fish curries, fresh lobsters, and saffron-dusted tiger prawns, demonstrating Spice Island’s vibrant bounty with every flavour-packed mouthful. Ungujan provenance is key to the chefs at Amani, with almost all ingredients sourced from nearby suppliers.
Take a walk along the beach — you’ll find it impossible not to get swept up in the energy of the island. Beach carts spill over with fresh tropical fruit, as locals pass by with trays of cashew nuts balanced on their heads. We spend hours staring out to sea, marvelling at the fishermen practising their craft on wooden catamarans, whilst kite surfers put on acrobatic displays, decorating the sky with a flock of colourful kites.
Further along the shore, we come across a group of local musicians dancing to the beat of some well-worn bongos, as a young Masai boy contorts himself into a pretzel.
We spend our evenings toasting the sunset with piña coladas and spicy margaritas, our toes buried in sand as we watch dhow boats sailing in the distance. Our skin, tinged and tingling after a day soaking up the African sun, enjoys the welcome respite of the early evening breeze, scented with a heady fragrance of suncream, jasmine, and frangipani flowers. It is a scent that will forever remind me of my time spent on this unforgettable island.
Photographs by Carlie Tasker
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