There’s something about Sicily that sticks with you. On your skin, in your camera roll, in how quickly you develop opinions about brioche. The island is full of contrasts: volcanic cliffs and citrus groves, peeling paint and polished marble, sea urchins eaten on plastic plates next to grand old cafés that look like they haven’t changed since the 1950s.
And the food — it gets under your skin. Simple ingredients — mozzarella from the Madonie Mountains, sun-ripened tomatoes. Basic, but somehow better here.
Breakfast in Sicily...
…is not something you rush. It’s granita and brioche, eaten slowly while the day warms up. The almond version is grainy, fragrant. Pistachio, though — that’s next level, and if you can find a place that adds a layer of cream on top, you’re onto a winner.
Meals are slower...
…louder, dictated by season and mood. There’s no performance — just pride. What’s on the plate depends on where you are, who’s cooking, and what was fresh that morning.
In Palermo...
…you eat standing up. Under strip lights, in the street, between conversations. Pane ca’ meusa (the ‘spleen sandwich’) isn’t there to be reinvented — it just exists. The arancini are the kind of hot where you know you should wait, but don’t. Crispy outside, lava inside — totally worth the burn.
The food markets aren’t aesthetic, they’re alive. Men shout prices over crates of prickly pears. Tourists and locals weave through the same narrow lanes. Vendors practically force-feed you samples, and you oblige. It’s chaotic but perfect.
Beyond the markets...
…trattorias give you a different pace. Pasta alla Norma shows up almost everywhere — fried aubergine, sweet tomato, salted ricotta. In Ortigia, there’s swordfish with lemon and olive oil. Wild fennel, pine nuts, raisins appear throughout Sicily. Sardines wrapped in breadcrumbs and citrus — sarde a beccafico — a humble dish found all over the island.
What’s on the plate depends on where you are, who’s cooking, and what was fresh that morning.
Cannoli are filled at the last second with proper ricotta — cool, whipped. Anything pre-filled is basically criminal. No one’s trying to impress you. Which, of course, is exactly what makes it so good.
You find yourself craving breakfast before you’ve even gone to bed — pistachio cornetti, almond granita, brioche still warm. Not bad for someone who never eats breakfast at home. Even your coffee changes. After the third slow, “Oat-a meelk??” — said like you’d just insulted their grandmother — you stop asking. You try horsemeat because, well, when in Sicily. It’s not for everyone, but the Sicilian guy you’re into doesn’t bat an eyelid. By the time you leave, you’re full, a little sunburnt, and quietly hooked — not just on the food, but on the place itself.
WHERE TO STAY IN SICILY
Donna Carmela Resort & Lodges
Book now
Hotel Villa Carlotta
Book now
Hotel Villa Ducale
Book now
Le Calette N°5
Book now
Q92 Noto Hotel
Book now
Susafa
Book now
Villa Athena Resort
Book now
Latest stories
Making tracks: a train journey taking in six European cultural capitals
It’s official – inter-railing is back, as travellers increasingly swap flights for the speed and ease of Europe’s rail network. Think zippy connections, city-centre arrivals, and stress-free border crossings: train travel is one of the fastest, most convenient, and still sustainable ways to explore the continent. Get ready for a
Independent Minds: Sheila Kyarisiima, The Pinnacle Kigali
High above Kigali on Rebero Hill, The Pinnacle offers sweeping views across the city, bringing contemporary luxury together with a strong sense of place. What began as a private family retreat has evolved into a destination that celebrates Rwanda’s culture, creativity and community. Here its founder, Sheila Kyarisiima, shares the
A postcard from: Piedmont with Sina Villa Matilde
Piedmont may be one of Italy’s less-travelled regions, and that is precisely part of its appeal. Sitting at the foot of the Alps, the landscape is a mix of rolling hills, family-run wineries and elegant country estates, with excellent food and wine at its heart – some might even say
Our edit of hotels to book in October
From a colourful restored villa in glamorous Capri to a private island with overwater villas in Indonesia, October brings a new crop of hotels worth knowing about. These are the openings catching our eye this month – some are historic properties given a new chapter, while others bring contemporary flair
